Chiang Rai often remains in the shadow of its more famous neighbor Chiang Mai. But those who travel a few hours further north will be rewarded with a fairy-tale world of temples, art and a peaceful atmosphere. If you are wondering what to see in Chiang Rai, how to get there and what not to miss, you have come to the right place on my blog. In this article, I will take you on a journey that smells of coffee from the mountains, shines with the whiteness of Wat Rong Khun and sounds like the quiet rustling of rice fields.
WHY VISIT CHIANG RAI
Chiang Rai is a place where art merges with faith, where temples are not just monuments, but experiences. A place where even silence has its value. If you are planning a trip to Thailand and are hesitating whether to make time for the north, the answer is: “Definitely yes!”. Chiang Rai will show you Thailand a little differently. And in a calmer and deeper context. And maybe, like me, it will seem more personal than Chiang Mai. It occupies a strategic location in a place called the Golden Triangle. Yes, it is exactly the place where the borders of Thailand, Laos and Burma meet. This has made it an important trade center and a meeting place for cultures.
HOW TO GET TO CHIANG RAI AND WHEN TO DEPARTURE
Chiang Rai is located in the very north of Thailand, as I already wrote, just a short distance from the borders with Laos and Burma. The fastest way to get there is by plane from Bangkok. The flight takes just over an hour. If you have more time and want to explore the area yourself, you can take a bus from Chiang Mai. The journey takes about 3-4 hours and you will pass through beautiful mountain scenery.
The best time to visit is between November and February, when the weather is most pleasant. Dry, blue skies and cool, which will pleasantly surprise you after the hot south of Thailand. I visited Chaing Rai at the end of August. It rained a little, but it wasn’t too bad.
WAT RONG KHUN
WHITE APPARENCE IN THE MIDDLE OF RICE FIELDS
If you only know Chiang Rai from photos, you’ve probably seen the iconic white temple of Wat Rong Khun. It’s so surreal that it looks more like a digital illusion than a real place. But yes, it really exists, and it’s even more impressive when you stand there in person.
The temple was created by Thai artist Chalermchai Kositpipat, who is still working on it today. He started the project in 1996. The entrance is guarded by two giant demons, and the main hall is lined with small mirrors that are said to reflect the Buddha’s radiant wisdom. Each decorative element symbolizes a religious teaching. Unfortunately, photography is not allowed inside.
The main building is reached by a bridge over a small lake, where hundreds of agonizingly outstretched hands symbolize desire, human suffering, and hell. The bridge is meant to lead the visitor to the beginning of the cycle of rebirth, encouraging people to overcome worldly temptations and desires.
The grounds are decorated with statues of blissful enlightened beings sitting on lotus leaves and mythological creatures of mixed species, but there is also a mural depicting Po from the movie Kung Fu Panda and the comic book hero Spiderman, who is fighting another battle. There are also drawings of Elvis and Batman. However, each of these characters is used to tell the stories of the Buddha’s life and teachings. I really enjoyed the Matrix, Harry Potter, Hello Kitty, nuclear bomb explosions or George Bush. It is a sharp criticism of consumer society and at the same time a call for spiritual purification.
Two other notable buildings are the Golden Building, which houses the toilets, symbolizing the inappropriate focus on worldly desires and money. And the crematorium, where the dead pass from this life to the next. Another building is an elaborately decorated building that serves to remind visitors of the transience of life on earth. The gardens feature concrete “trees” decorated with medallions.
WHO IS CHALERMCHAI KOSITPIPAT?
Chalermchai Kositpipat was born into a Chinese-Lanna family. His father was a Chinese immigrant, while his mother was Thai Chinese. He later attended Silpakorn University, a primary school of visual arts in Thailand.
He began by painting movie advertisements on billboards. His early murals combined traditional Thai Buddhist temple art with contemporary paintings.
In 1980, Chalermchai visited Sri Lanka for his first trip abroad. He stayed there for six months, studying Sri Lankan architecture, sculpture, painting and Buddhist temples. He was influenced by the white statues and temples of Sri Lanka.
WHEN TO VISIT THE TEMPLE
The White Temple is open daily from 8:00 AM to 6:00 PM. Entrance to the temple costs 100 THB (about $2.70 USD) (or it is free to explore the exterior). It is only a 20-30 minute drive from the center of Chiang Rai.
MY TIP:
When visiting the white temple, I’m sure you’ll be surprised to see the most beautiful bathroom in the region, with stunning golden toilets. They’re a stark contrast to the stark white of the rest of the temple. So, go to the bathroom there. 🙂
WAT RONG SUEA TEN – BLUE HYPNOSITATING TEMPLE
Now, if the white temple seemed like a dream, the blue temple of Wat Rong Suea Ten is its nighttime version. This place glows with a dazzling azure blue and gold details that look like something out of a dream of the Queen of Feathered Dragons.
The temple was designed by a student of the creator of the White Temple, which is evident in the similar surrealist style. The Buddha statue in the middle of the blue interior looks calm and majestic. What’s more, admission is free and the atmosphere is much calmer than at its more famous white counterpart.
The incredibly bright blue color symbolizes purity, wisdom, and lack of materialism, and is home to many unique sculptures, both outside and inside. Inside, you’ll also find a mural of the Wheel of Life, a Buddhist representation of the cycle of life.
WHEN TO VISIT THE TEMPLE
The Blue Temple is open from 8:00 AM to 5:00 PM and admission is free (although donations are welcome). The temple is relatively small, so allow 30 minutes to 1 hour for your visit. We also recommend visiting early in the morning to avoid the crowds and see the temple at its quietest.
WHAT YOU MAY NOT HAVE KNOWN
ABOUT THE BLUE TEMPLE
The Blue Temple, also known as Wat Rong Suea Ten, is also known as the Temple of the Dancing Tiger. This is because tigers roamed freely on the site of the original ancient temple centuries ago. That’s why you’ll see tigers depicted in statues throughout the complex.
BAAN DAM
BLACK HOUSE AS A DARK OPPOSITION
The White Temple is light, the Blue Temple is a dream, and the Black House (Baan Dam) seemed more like darkness to me. And you literally feel cramped here. But even so, it is a beautiful, deep and mysterious darkness. The Black House is not a temple, but rather a gallery, museum and art complex. You will find dozens of wooden buildings with bizarre decorations. The buildings look like something between a Buddhist temple, a hunting lodge and a nightmare. 🙂 People here admire crocodile skins, skulls, horns and dark mirrors. To me, it rather reminds me of a complex that looks like a dark city in the jungle.
It was created by another Thai artist, Thawan Duchanee, who apparently loved Vikings, dark legends and animal skulls in his childhood. And he decided to combine all of this into one art complex. The Black House is not just one house. There are dozens of them. I think Baan Dam is not for everyone, but it definitely evokes emotions. Some love it, others don’t understand it, but I think few will leave indifferent. He created it over 40 years. And when you enter there, you don’t feel like a tourist. More like a pilgrim in another world. In a house that combines life and death, spirituality and animality, beauty and horror.
And what’s the best part? It’s not all dark just for effect. It’s thoughtful. Every corner, every skin, every rhino horn has its place and meaning. If you like art that slightly scares you but you can’t take your eyes off it, Baan Dam is your new spiritual home. Here, everything has a deeper meaning. Every chair, every animal skull and every horn..
There are log cabins with cow horns hanging from them, thrones made of bones, skulls displayed as art, and tables that would make even a Lord of the Rings fan feel like a Boy Scout. All in deep black, with the occasional touch of red or gold. It’s a bit like a temple of death, but it’s fascinating. Duchanee may have drawn on Thai symbolism, but the result looks like the dark dream of an interior designer who went a little overboard with the psychedelics.
WHEN TO VISIT THE TEMPLE
The museum is located a 20-minute drive from the center of Chiang Rai, so it’s best to hail a tuk-tuk or rent a motorbike in town. The museum is open daily from 9:00 AM to 5:00 PM and admission costs 80 THB (about $2.50 USD).
WHO WAS BAAN DAM?
He was born in 1939 in northern Thailand and from a young age it was clear that something… extraordinary was growing here. He studied at Silpakorn University in Thailand and later in the Netherlands. And that changed him. Not that he became a European intellectual, but rather he realized that he wanted to break into the world with something truly Thai, but completely different.
And so he began to create. Not beautiful Buddha apparitions and graceful lines, but predatory, raw images. Monsters, demons, masks. And above all, symbolism that makes you think. His style? Dark expressionism with religious overtones.
A mix of Hinduism, Buddhism, shamanism, animism and a bit of post-apocalypse. Critics loved and hated him. And he? He kept going. Thawan Duchanee was also a philosopher. He talked about the balance between light and darkness. That true art must be a challenge, not decoration. And most importantly, that one cannot separate the spirit and the body, the senses and faith. His work was often perceived as controversial, but that never stopped him. He was exactly the type of artist who would rather hear “what the hell is this?” than hushed applause.
MY TIP:
QR codes around the buildings can be scanned with your phone to animate the art. Very innovative!
Chiang Rai is not just about temples, although those are the icing on the cake. What else is worth visiting?
CLOCK TOWER
This beautiful golden clock tower, built to commemorate the king’s birthday, is the focal point of the city. The Clock Tower is beautifully golden during the day and transforms into a light show at night. It was designed by Chalermchai again. Yes, the same one who designed the White Temple. It serves as a roundabout, often surrounded by a sea of motorbikes and tuk-tuks.
MY TIP:
Don’t miss visiting the clock tower at night, when the colorful lights beautifully illuminate the gold and the colors change throughout the night. If you come here at 7:00 PM, 8:00 PM or 9:00 PM, you will also be able to see a dance performance with traditional Thai music.
CHOUI FONG TEA PLANTATION
If you love tea, you definitely have to come here. From the terrace overlooking the plantations, oolong tea tastes doubly good. Choui Fong Tea is well known for its top quality traditional teas such as Assam, green tea, Oolong and black tea.
Founder, Thawee Wanaspitaksakul, planted his first plantation in Doi Payapai Mae Fah Luang in 1977 with the vision of producing tea that would amaze customers from all over the world. He tirelessly pursued perfection through proven methods, continuous improvement of expertise and, most importantly, through studying and understanding the local soil and climate.
There is also a beautiful cafe and souvenir shop where you can buy some tea. It is located on the left hill as you enter the tea plantation. The cafe is designed to blend naturally with the hill while providing a breathtaking view of the plantation. This stunning architectural design has won many prestigious design awards.
While you’re there, don’t forget to take part in a tea making class, where you can learn how to make the perfect cup of tea.
WHEN TO VISIT THE PLANTATION
The farm and café are open daily from 8:30 a.m. to 5:30 p.m.
MY TIP:
I recommend going with a local guide. The trip usually includes visits to hill tribes and smaller temples along the way.
What to visit in Chinag Rai?
HILLTRIBE MUSEUM
The Hill Tribe Museum is the headquarters of an NGO that supports the hill tribes. They explain the characteristics and current situation of the various ethnic groups in a very nice way. I recommend you first watch the introductory video, which is in several languages, to understand the history of the hill tribe people in Thailand.
For example, the area with tools and equipment such as mortars, rice-pounding wheels, looms and various costumes of the hill tribes is very interesting. There are also displays of the houses of each ethnic group and the interesting history of opium.
TEMPLE WAT JED YOD
If you still can’t get enough of temples, I recommend visiting this very beautiful temple. Or you can save it for another day. It is a very enriching experience. This traditional Thai temple is located in the heart of the city. Just a 5-minute walk from the main bus station and near the vibrant night bazaar. It is a hidden gem. You can get there easily and it is deserted.
The temple was built in 1844 and completed in 1944. It certainly boasts Lanna architecture with striking red and gold hues.
The main hall houses a massive golden Buddha statue with such a warm and welcoming expression, surrounded by colorful murals depicting Buddhist stories.
The astrological fresco on the ceiling is very beautiful.
Although this temple is not as ostentatious as other Thai temples, its authenticity makes it special.
MARKETS IN CHAING RAI
The Chiang Rai Night Bazaar is a nightly event filled with food, music and colour, with delicious pad thai, crispy spring rolls and hill tribe coffee.
There are several markets in Chiang Rai, so there is always something to do. The most popular with locals is the Saturday Night Market, located in the city center. What makes this market even more special is the lack of tourists. It is a popular place for locals to spend the evening with friends and family, have dinner, listen to live music and soak up the atmosphere of a Saturday night in the city.
- Saturday Walking Street Market: Held every Saturday night, this market is a must-see. You will find a diverse mix of handicrafts, traditional art and delicious Thai street food. The lively atmosphere and live music performances make it an unforgettable experience.
- Kad Luang Chiang Rai Market: The market has a traditional Thai feel. There are plenty of shops and stalls selling a variety of local products from clothes to fruits and vegetables, meat, fresh fish and local fast food.
- Chiang Rai Farmers Market: If you want to sample fresh local produce and organic goods, visit the Chiang Rai Farmers Market. It’s a great place to buy high-quality fruits, vegetables, and artisanal products.
Opening hours and entrance fees: The market opens at sunset (around 6pm) and stays open until late. Remember to bring cash as many vendors do not accept card payments.
COFFEE AND PEACE. CHIANG RAI IS A BALM FOR THE SOUL
You’ll find a variety of restaurants here, from English-style cottages serving traditional dishes to modern establishments serving international cuisine. And of course, they all serve great coffee! Some of my favorite places to grab a delicious cup of coffee include:
S’panad Coffee Shop -This little shop is very welcoming with charming decor. The coffee was freshly ground. The best cappuccino we had in three weeks in Thailand. The almond croissant was delicious. The owners are kind. It is located right across from the Sleepy House Boutique Hotel.
WHERE TO STAY – AT THE CATS
I’ll admit it straight away. I’m afraid of cats. I’ve been wondering if I should stay in Sleepy house. The cat-themed decor throughout the hotel is quirky and beautiful. Every review from a cat lover put me off. The idea of cats running around terrified me. I thought I couldn’t possibly mentally handle it. But I liked the price and the fact that the hostel was sold out. In the end, I decided to take the risk and overcome my fear. The location is a major plus. It’s just a short 5-10 minute walk to the vibrant Chiang Rai Night Market, where I enjoyed some delicious street food and local crafts.
There are also plenty of restaurants, cafes and a 7-11 nearby, so you’re never far from great dining options or convenience. Even though the hotel is so close to the action, it’s tucked away on a quiet side street, ensuring a peaceful night’s sleep. The rooms were spotlessly clean, modern and had everything I needed – a comfortable bed, powerful air conditioning and free WiFi. The staff were incredibly friendly.
The highlight for me was the adorable house cats that roam the grounds. They are super friendly, well behaved and give the place such a unique, comforting atmosphere, making it perfect for cat lovers. When they offered to pet one at reception, I declined. They were a bit shocked but didn’t push any further. When they told us we had free breakfast, I ended up not going. The idea of having breakfast with a cat on the table just didn’t sit well with me.
TRANSPORTATION IN CHIANG RAI
Of course, Chiang Rai has several transportation options and you can easily get around by bus. There is also a very nice train station, from where buses leave every now and then to Chinag Mai or the surrounding area. You can rent a motorbike or scooter to explore the area.
There is also a Grab service, which is similar to Uber. You can use this app to order a car or a motorbike taxi for a comfortable and hassle-free ride.
AND WHY GO TO CHIANG RAI?
The city is surrounded by breathtaking scenery, including mountains, waterfalls and lush forests. You can visit ancient temples, lively markets and diverse hill tribe communities. You can immerse yourself in local traditions, watch traditional ceremonies and explore the rich heritage of the area. And that’s worth it, right? 🙂
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