Who doesn’t know the book Grandma by the famous Czech writer Božena Němcová? When I took the St. James’ Way along the Všeruby Route, I got to the places where Božena Němcová stayed with her husband Josef Němcová.
And it was in Tanaberk and Všeruby that I wanted to walk through the picturesque and romantic landscape. I wanted to follow in her footsteps directly to the places where she was born and spent her youth. I also wanted to discover the places where real or fictional characters from her books used to go. And so, for my birthday, I wished that I would visit Česká Skalica, because nowhere else does Božena Němcová’s legacy remain as carefully guarded as here. And it was a great wish, because at this time of year the Dahlia Festival is held here.
Whatever Božena Němcová was, we can say with certainty that she was a unique woman with a progressive perception. If she were alive today, she would certainly fill the front pages of newspapers and perhaps her life would not have been more satisfying. She confused the heads of more than one young man. She was lucky to live in a time when society was quite liberal, and therefore marriage was not considered a flaw in beauty. 🙂
In one letter to her lover, she stated:
“If I had to choose, I would wish to be born again in two hundred years or later, because I don’t know if by then there will be a world in which I would want to live with pleasure.”
BOŽENA NĚMCOVA MUSEUM IN ČESKÁ SKALICA
Josef Steidler would probably be surprised that his famous inn became the Božena Němcová Museum. But I think he would not have been disappointed. It was he who was the best man at the wedding of the lord’s stolba Josef Pankl, Božena Němcová’s father.
The young Barunka was getting married in a nearby church and it was clear where the wedding reception would take place. Yes, in the inn U Bílého lva, today it is a museum. Today it is dedicated to the life and work of the famous writer. Right in the first hall, Božena Němcová looks at you from a large portrait by Adolf Kašpar.
THE SURVIVORS OF BOŽENA NEMCOVA
However, what I was most attracted to was her estate, which consists of furniture, paintings, and several pieces of porcelain and glass.
The display cases display various editions of Grandma, as well as the writer’s books of fairy tales and short stories. Without Božena, fairy tales such as The Princess with the Golden Star on Her Forehead or Prince Bajaja would probably have fallen into oblivion. Who wouldn’t know their famous film adaptations such as The Proud Princess, Three Nuts for Cinderella, The Prince and the Nightingale or There Are No Jokes with Devils?
COSTUMES FROM THE MOVIE GRANDMA
The museum also features a memento of the 1971 film Grandma by director Antonín Moskalyk, where Barunka was played by Libuše Šafránková and the grandmother by Jarmila Kurandová.
The park in front of the museum is decorated with one of the most beautiful statues of Božena Němcová, then Barunka Panklová. The statue depicts her at the age of 17, just as she was getting married.
“If there were no memories, one would not believe that one had ever been happy.”
DAISY CELEBRATIONS
If, like me, you have longed to discover the magic of the Dahlia Festival, don’t miss a tour of the Dahlia Hall in the museum. It was built by Mr. Steidler specifically for the Dahlia Festival. In addition to the exhibition of fashionable dahlias at the time, the festivities also included a ball. The newly married Barbora Němcová became the queen of the first Dahlia Ball.
Among the famous guests was Bedřich Smetana, who composed the Jiřinka Polka in honor of the festivities.
“A true friend is one who admonishes you, one who tells you the truth to your face; value that!”
I was lucky enough to visit Česká Skalica in September, when the museum grounds are flooded with thousands of brightly colored flowers. There are concerts and the scent of dahlias is everywhere.
BARUNKA SCHOOL
From the castle it is a few steps to Barunka school. It is also the first stop from the city to Grandma’s Valley. This wooden building really served as a school, where young Božena was also enrolled. It was here that she set the story Mr. Teacher. Unfortunately, when I was here, the school was closed.
“I have felt many pains in my life, bitter deceptions, I have been on the verge of despair – but despite this, I have not lost my trust and love for people.”
GRANDMOTHER’S VALLEY NATURAL TRAIL
Most visitors to Grandma’s Valley arrive by car as far as the Ratibořice Castle, so they miss a lot of beautiful places. And that’s a big shame, because there’s nothing easier than following the yellow tourist trail.
HUNTING PAVILION
The hunting pavilion is a hidden place at first glance. It gives a romantic impression, but unfortunately it is not accessible to the public.
The yellow sign will lead you from here over a slight hill to the Ratibořice Castle area.
CASTLE IN RATIBORICE
This romantic castle was originally built in the Baroque style in the early 18th century as a hunting lodge for Prince Piccolomini. It only acquired its present form later, when it became the residence of Kateřina Vilemína, Duchess of Zaháňská. Yes, that is exactly the one who appears in Grandma as the princess. The Duchess was a true lady with a high social standing. At the local castle, she hosted, for example, the Russian Tsar Alexander I and Prince Metternich, the long-time Austrian Foreign Minister and State Chancellor. In 1813, representatives of Austria, Prussia and Russia even met here for secret talks to agree on a joint action against Napoleon.
“A woman must return to humanity the lost paradise, that precious pearl; but first she must know that it lies at the bottom of her own heart, where she must dive for it!”
AND WHO WAS THE ACTUAL
PRINCESS OF ZAHÁŇSKÁ?
round the castle there is a beautiful park, where there are a large number of North American trees, which adds to its uniqueness.
The nature trail will lead you around the orangery and, with slow steps, you will reach places connected to the life of the Pankl family.
RODR’S MILL
Not far from the monument is Rodr’s mill, also known from the novel, because Mančinka, Barunka’s older friend, lived here. Nearby is a functional water mill, which is a sought-after technical monument.
On the other side of the river you will see the now defunct Panský hostinec, where Kristla from Grandma served.
SCULPTURE GRANDMOTHER WITH GRANDCHILDREN
Even if you’ve never been to Ratibořice, I think you’re probably familiar with this sculpture by sculptor Otto Gutfreund. It depicts a scene from a book where children look at the stars and their grandmother tells them that everyone has their own star. And be sure to see a long line of people waiting for a romantic photo.
Božena Němcová began writing her most famous work during the most difficult period of her life, when her eldest son died of tuberculosis.
“I started working on it after Hynek’s death, when I got tired of living in the world.
I ran away to that lonely house in the little valley, to the feet of my dear grandmother.”
STARÉ BĚLIDLO (OLD BLEACHING HOUSE)
The penultimate stop is the Old Bleaching House. This is where Božena Němcová set the plot of her novel Grandma, and according to the book, it was here that grandmother Marie Magdaléna Novotná lived with her entire family and dogs Sultan and Tyrl. But that is not true. In reality, the Old Bleaching House stood in the immediate vicinity of the castle in the Ratibořice courtyard, near a large greenhouse. It was demolished on the orders of Duchess Zaháňská. The family was then given a replacement apartment. However, the grandmother no longer lived here. But it was in this house that the writer later spent the summer with her children.
Don’t be disappointed if you find only one room here, which represents the Pankl family’s home. The cottage is furnished with period furniture and items from the collections of the Božena Němcová Museum, to make it look like something out of a book.
VIKTORKA’S RAFT
From here it is just a short step to the raft, which no longer looks like it did in Barunka’s time. Even so, this place breathes a bit of romance, which is connected to the tragedy of the crazy Viktorka and her drowned child.
My journey ends at the raft and I set off on my return journey again along the yellow tourist trail. I believe that my journey in the footsteps of Božena Němcová does not end here. I would like to complete my journey by discovering the places where Božena Němcová stayed in Prague. And there were many of them. 🙂
HOW TO GET THERE
BY CAR
Česká Skalice is located on the E67 road route (Prague – Hradec Králové – Jaroměř – ČESKÁ SKALICE – Náchod – border crossing to Poland).
BY TRAIN
Prague – Hradec Králové / Hradec Králové – Česká Skalice
Brno – Hradec Králové / Hradec Králové – Česká Skalice
Česká Skalice train station is located on the outskirts of the city, near the Rozkoš campsite. Local signs will lead you from there to the square and further to the museum.
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