Going to Bangkok and not visiting the Grand Palace is like not going to see the Eiffel Tower in Paris. It is one of the most visited and also the most beautiful monuments in Thailand. This magnificent building, which was once the residence of the Thai kings, is full of history, fascinating architecture and sacred temples. So if you are planning a visit to Bangkok, the Grand Palace should be at the top of your list.
There are a lot of “tuk-tuk drivers” around the palace who will try to tell you that the palace is closed today (it is open every day), and that they will take you to Wat Pho, which is open (and is a few steps away). I have been to Bangkok several times and every time it is the same game, you either resist or let yourself be taken to shops where they will force you to buy various dubious goods. So be strong and don’t be fooled. Read my article instead, where you will learn everything you need to know. 🙂 In short, I will guide you through the history, but I will also tell you interesting facts and tips for visiting.
HISTORY OF THE ROYAL PALACE
Construction of this remarkable complex began with the founding of the capital in 1782 by King Rama I, who moved the capital of Siam from Thonburi to the east bank of the Chao Phraya River in Bangkok. He wanted to model a city similar to that of Ayutthaya. This self-sufficient “city within a city” was surrounded by 1,900 meters of walls. During this time, the foundations of the city were laid, canals were created to represent the rivers around the old city, and bricks were salvaged from the ruins to build palaces. Since then, the palace has been the home of the Thai royal family until the mid-20th century. Today, the royal family lives in Dusit, and the palace is used primarily for ceremonial and official events. Only a few buildings house government offices, such as the Ministry of Finance, but most of them are unused.
The palace complex has grown steadily, and its architecture reflects influences not only from traditional Thai style, but also from Baroque, Neoclassical and Victorian architecture. In addition, the palace is surrounded by massive walls over 2 kilometers long, which once served as protection against enemy attacks.
SIAMIAN ARCHITECTURE
In this temple complex you will find the most beautiful flowers of Siamese architecture, which look very exotic. I felt like I was in a fairy tale.
MYTHICAL CREATURES
If you’ve ever flown into Bangkok’s Suvarnabhumi Airport, you’ve probably come across at least one of these formidable figures with fangs, painted faces, and bulging eyes upon arrival. In Buddhist mythology, they are known as Yakshas. They are guardian warriors who ward off evil spirits and can be seen in a number of temples in Thailand. The figurines on display at Bangkok Airport are replicas of the famous Yaksha from the Temple of the Emerald Buddha (Wat Phra Kaeo). In Thai, these figurines are often referred to simply as yak (giant), and Thai children are introduced to these male and female giants from an early age. Just as children in English-speaking countries may learn from flashcards that “a is for apple” or “d is for dog,” Thai children learn that the consonant “yau” stands for Yakshas.
They have been common as gatekeepers in Buddhist temples throughout the country since at least the 14th century. Ceramic statues of the guardians were produced in Thailand during the Sukhothai and Ayutthaya periods, between the 14th and 16th centuries. They are usually depicted with a distinctive face, large round bulging eyes and protruding fangs, as well as green skin.
Another figure. you will encounter in the palace is the figure of Guruda. It symbolizes protection and spiritual protection. In the palace, he is represented by amazing decorative gilded sculptures. They are half-human and half-bird. They hold snakes in their hands and are typical decorative elements of the wat.
These snakes are called Nagas, which is an original Hindu mythological creature associated with water. The name is derived from the Sanskrit word for snake or dragon, which corresponds to the style in which it is usually depicted. Its body is covered with large scales like a huge snake (cobra) or dragon (in which case it has 4 legs with large claws). The head has large teeth and usually looks like a dragon or snake – sometimes they have more than 3, 5, 7 or 9 heads.
Another mythical figure you will encounter in the palace is the figure of APSONSI. This is a mythical creature that is half woman and half lion. It is one of the beautiful gilded statues on the upper terrace of Wat Phra Kaeo.
WHAT TO SEE IN THE ROYAL PALACE
Basically, wherever you look, you will see pure beauty. There is no guide to how to walk through the palace. You will simply proceed from one building to another. Eventually, you will always arrive at the central shrine.
GOLD, GOLD, GOLD… It is difficult to determine exactly how many kilograms of gold are used in the Thai Royal Palace in Bangkok, because some places are inaccessible to the public.
TEMPLE OF THE EMERALD BUDDHA
(Wat Phra Kaew)
Wat Phra Kaew, or Temple of the Emerald Buddha, serves as the spiritual heart of the entire palace and is among the most sacred Buddhist temples in Thailand. This sacred site houses the Emerald Buddha. It sits high above the crowds of worshippers on a golden altar. You might think from its name that its statue is made of emerald. It is not. It is carved from a single piece of jade.
It is believed to bring prosperity, peace and happiness to the Thai people. It measures 75 cm. Interestingly, its clothes change three times a year according to the seasons, in summer, winter and during the rainy season. This ritual is performed by the Thai king himself. The Thais attribute divine power to the statue and associate the fate of their country with it. When the statue was stolen by Laotian soldiers, the enraged Thais fought it back.
PHRA MAHA MONTHIEN
This name refers to a group of buildings located near the eastern edge of the central courtyard. It was built as the main residence and audience hall for the kings. The main building of the group, barely visible to tourists, is the Chakraphat Phiman Hall. It was the main house of the first three kings of the Chakri dynasty, and it is still customary for new kings to spend at least one night here after their coronation.
This complex includes several main halls where Thai monarchs were crowned. The hall is now used for ceremonial occasions, such as the King’s birthday speech. There is a door leading from the hall that only the King, Queen and their children can pass through.
PRASAT PHRA THEP BIDON
(ROYAL PANTHEON)
It was originally built as a residence for the Emerald Buddha by Rama IV. The structure is inspired by the royal palace in Ayutthaya. The king died before its completion, and his plans to move the Emerald Buddha into the building never came to fruition. The building was even destroyed by fire, which required a complete reconstruction. The current structure was completed during the reign of Rama VI in the early 20th century. The king decided to change the purpose of the building and turned it into a memorial to his predecessors.
The name was changed to Prasat Phra Thep Bidon, known in English as the Royal Pantheon. Rama VI had life-size, life-like statues of the first five Chakri kings made and installed in the pantheon. Additional statues were added in 1927, 1959, and 2020. The pantheon currently contains nine statues. The pantheon is usually closed to the public, but opens annually on 6 April for Chakri Memorial Day, a national holiday in Thailand.
The roof is covered with green and orange tiles. The four pediments of the pantheon depict the personal ranks of the first four Chakri kings. The outer walls of the pantheon are decorated with blue tiles with floral motifs. There is a royal crown on each door and window of the pantheon.
PAGODA – PHRA SI RATTANA CHEDI
This Golden Pagoda was built by King Mongkut in the mid-19th century as a container for a piece of Buddha’s bone. The pagoda is in the Sri Lankan style.
THRONE HALL OF PHRA MAHA MONTHEIN BUILDING
(CHAKRI MANA PRASAT)
A building with a unique combination of Thai and European architecture. It was built during the reign of King Rama V, who was fascinated by European culture and the modernization of Thailand. However, this royal residence has long ceased to serve as the residence of the royal family. The ashes of the kings are kept in the upper part of the tallest and centrally located tower. The surrounding towers, in turn, contain the ashes of other members of the Chakri dynasty. The first floor is the only floor that is open to the public. It serves as the main reception hall, where the king grants audience to ambassadors and entertains foreign monarchs.
DUSIT THRONE PALACE (DUSIT MANA PRASAT)
This throne palace is an example of traditional Thai architecture with ornate roofs. Inside is the teak throne of Rama I, which was used for royal funeral ceremonies such as the annual Royal Ploughing Festival. It is a masterpiece of original mother-of-pearl.
COLORFUL FRESCOES
The entire temple complex is surrounded by an arcaded walkway decorated with beautiful colorful frescoes depicting epic stories from the Ramakien (the Thai version of the Indian Ramayana). These murals tell stories of heroism, loyalty, and divine intervention, offering visitors a glimpse into Thai folklore. If you look closely, you’ll find mythical figures, demons, and heroes in dramatic scenes full of color and detail.
The paintings on the 180 panels date back to the late 18th century. Because of the high humidity in Thailand, they often need to be renewed. They are separated by marble pillars that bear verses from the story. If you can read them, take a clockwise path.
MINIATURE ANGKOR WATU
A small model of the famous Cambodian temple of Angkor Wat, built here by King Rama IV to show the importance of the ancient Khmer Empire to Thai history.
QUEEN SIRIKIT TEXTILE MUSEUM
A very nice museum located behind Wat Phra Kaew is the Queen Sirikit Textile Museum. It is located to the right of the visitor entrance to the Grand Palace. It is truly a treasure trove of textile art from East, South and Southeast Asia, with a particular focus on Thailand and its royal court. The exhibitions change regularly, so if you go there, you won’t see the same clothes as me.
But it is mostly a tribute to the life and work of Queen Sirikit. There are lots of photographs, filmed interviews and, most importantly, samples of the Queen’s wardrobe. Especially the most stylish day, cocktail and evening dresses of Her Majesty. Her wardrobe was sewn by international and local designers. Among the most famous was the French fashion designer Pierre Balmain.
In 1960, His Majesty King Bhumibol Adulyadej and Her Majesty Queen Sirikit went on a historic state visit to 15 Western countries. The tour was a formal introduction to the West for the young royal couple. Queen Sikrikit decided that she would need a fashionable, seasonally appropriate Western wardrobe for the six-month tour, and hired this famous Parisian designer to design it.
DRESS CODE
As a visitor, you must adhere to a strict dress code. This shows respect for Thai cultural values.
1. Cover your shoulders and arms: Forget sleeveless tops and tank tops. We weren’t even allowed in with a light scarf or shawl. Just wear a regular t-shirt.
2. Cover your legs: Shorts, short skirts, and ripped jeans are prohibited. You should wear long pants or a skirt that reaches below the knees.
3. You’re going to a party. Forget tight and see-through clothing: Clothing should be loose and opaque. Avoid see-through fabrics or tight clothing, which may be considered inappropriate.
4. Shoes: Shoes are acceptable outdoors, but you will need to take them off before entering certain parts of the temple, such as Wat Phra Kaew. Wearing slip-on shoes can make this process easier.
You can rent or buy appropriate clothing near the entrance if your outfit doesn’t meet the dress code. Sarongs and scarves are readily available. Or you can be stylish and wear one of the Thai outfits.
MY TIP
Plan your visit to the palace carefully! Check that the palace is actually open. During national holidays, some areas may be closed during state events. Beware of scammers near the palace who claim it is closed and offer “alternative” tours.
Remember to bring water and a hat, as there is very little shade in the palace grounds.
Respect palace etiquette and observe silence and dress code when visiting, especially in religious areas.
If it says no photography, then don’t take it! It’s not worth taking it outside the palace.
Take time to appreciate the murals and statues. They are truly magnificent and it would be a shame to miss them if you are in a hurry.
Speak softly: The palace is a sacred and ceremonial space. Speak in low tones to maintain a calm environment, especially near Wat Phra Kaew.
HOW TO GET TO THE ROYAL PALACE
The best way to get to the Grand Palace is by boat on the Chao Phraya River. Take the express boat and get off at Tha Chang Pier. From there it is just a few minutes walk.
The easiest and most pleasant route is to take the BTS Skytrain to “Saphan Taksin” station. From there, take the Chao Phraya River Express to Tha Chang Wang Luang Pier. From the pier to the entrance it is just a short walk.
Alternatively, you can take the MRT to Sam Yot Station and walk for about 15-20 minutes.
Another option is to take a taxi from your starting point. Make sure the driver turns on the meter. Although it is the law in Bangkok, they often don’t do this and charge you whatever they want at the end.
Address: Na Phra Lan Road, Rattanakosin
ADMISSION FEE AND OPENING HOURS
The temple is open daily from 8:30 AM to 3:30 PM. There is a flat entrance fee of 500 BTH. Arrive early in the morning for opening hours, as there are long lines at the ticket office later and you might not have time to walk around the entire complex. And it is also very hot there. The sun is at its peak between 11:00 AM and 2:00 PM, so it is not the hottest time to explore.
You can admire more than 400 temples in Bangkok, but I think none can seriously compete with this temple complex.
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