Now I can say it and I want to shout it to the whole world: “I’m having a lot of fun and I’m enjoying it!” I’m already in Spain! It was pretty quick. In two days I crossed, well, I actually crossed the border. But I know that this decision will give me time for Porto. Don’t you want to read an article about Porto on my blog? 🙂

GALICIA

They say that Galicia is a completely different Spain. It’s a country shrouded in legends and myths. A place where you can admire beautiful landscapes, breathtaking estuaries with many islands and islets. Add to this the local architecture in the form of baroque and folk buildings and, last but not least, a unique gastronomy based on quality ingredients (seafood – I’m in paradise!), complemented by delicious wines. The overall picture is complete and is simply perfect! What more could you ask for, right?

DAY 3. – THE ROUTE CAMINHA – A GUARDA (5,2 KM) – OIA (13,4 KM)  – VILADESUSO (3,7 KM)

Total route: approx. 24 km (7 hours)

Not only am I in Spain, but I’m mainly in Galicia. I’ve never been here. And I’m surprised right from the start. I didn’t expect to find so many hills. And I’m not exaggerating. And the second thing that surprised me. Nobody speaks English here. God, how am I gonna speak when I get lost in the woods? 🙂 This time I didn’t underestimate the preparation, I have downloaded the whole Portugal and Spain in offline maps. 🙂

And you’ll be amazed! I didn’t get lost! So there!:-) Only once I went off the road because I was confused by a man with a backpack when he turned off. On the other hand, I met a lady on the way who was walking quite briskly but kept getting lost. Even in a place where it was quite clear, she turned wrong. I thought to myself, that’s me! Many times I wanted to tell her that she was going the wrong way, to ditch the mobile phone and follow the arrows instead, but she didn’t speak English. All the time I was wondering where she’s going, she’s going wrong again. Suddenly, I didn’t see her part of the way. But she suddenly reappeared. 🙂

A GUARDA

This port city was largely built by emigrants who returned to Spain from Puerto Rico. I walk the streets of the town and enjoy.

There’s a path around the sea from the A Guard. I meet a young Spanish couple. They’ve got these little backpacks and they’re always taking pictures. They always walk a few meters and take a selfie together. They always catch me after a couple of kilometres to take a picture. I’m like, “If we go at this rate, we’ll never get to Santiago! :-)”

This section of the route is very pleasant. It is hot, but there is a cold wind. So it’s actually very pleasant.

I stop for lunch at a very nice cafeteria, where I have my beloved calamari.

Somewhere in the hills I meet an American woman Emily for the first time and we start talking. We talk about what it is like on other routes of the St. James Way. We had quite a laugh, although at times I felt awkward next to her that I couldn’t keep up. I mean, I can’t walk fast and still talk. 🙂

OIA

I meet my family on the bridge and Emily leaves me. And because I can’t keep up with their fast walking, I’m walking alone again. I’m walking through an area that used to be a deserted area known for high winds.

Oia is such a cute seaside village with a few restaurants and the Mosteiro de Santa María de Oia church standing out. It’s getting hot though and I walk the rest of the way mostly in the sun. And I get quite sunburnt. And I swear, I put cream on again.:-)

DAY 4.THE ROUTE VILADESUSO – MOUGAS  (2,7 KM) – BAIONA (11 KM) – SARABIS (3,2 KM) – A RAMALLOSA (1,8 KM) – PLAYA AMERICA

Total distance: 21 Km (6,25 hours)

Again, we get up early in the morning and walk past the rough sea. The path is shrouded in fog, which gives the path such a very nice magic.

I really enjoy walking along the sea like this. There’s a cold wind blowing, which I don’t mind at all. At least I’m not hot.

We stop for breakfast at the campsite. And who are we going to run into here? Emily. 🙂 She’s telling me how the night was. She’s got her own tent. It was quite windy that day, so sleeping in a tent wasn’t so great. And there was no toilet paper in the toilets that night. She went to report it and the lady said, “It’s okay, I’ll fill it up tomorrow!” I laugh out loud. That’s really funny. 🙂 I have no idea what’s gonna happen to me. In the meantime, I order a sandwich for breakfast, and when they only bring me toasted bread, I’m pretty embarrassed. I didn’t expect that. Hold on, we all have different ideas of what a sandwich looks like. 🙂 After a while, they bring us jam. Well, at least that’s it. :-))))

Before you leave the coast, the road starts to rise around Mt Boredo. The first thing I thought was, “Oh my God, another hill! :-)” But it wasn’t so bad. On the contrary, I thought it was a very pleasant way through the forest and the view was amazing.

However, part of the route runs for several kilometres along a cycle path. It’s a bit unpleasant when cars are always passing you, but it’s bearable.

BAIONA

Baiona is said to be the smallest and southernmost town in Galicia. In the past, its inhabitants made their living by fishing. It’s just such a stupid timing of arrival. It’s 12 o’clock and the restaurants don’t open until 1:00. You can sit down and have a drink, but they don’t bring you food until then. You’d better take that into account when timing your route so you don’t go hungry. Or you can just buy something in the shop.

 THE SHIP “PINTA”BY CHRISTOPH COLUMBUS

The interesting thing about this city is that it was the first place on the entire old continent to learn about the discovery of the New World. I never understood in school why they were so hung up on dates. What’s the point? Doesn’t it matter? 🙂 However, I remember two, even if you woke me up at midnight. Namely, the date Charles University was founded (1348) and the year Christopher Columbus discovered America (1492). I also remember the names of the ships he discovered it with – the Niña, the Pinta and the Santa Maria.

Columbus made a total of four voyages across the Atlantic Ocean in the service of the Catholic kings of Spain. The Pinta was the third ship of the first expedition Columbus led. The commander of the Pinta was Martin Alonso Pinzon. Initially, the ship had problems and had to stop in Las Palmas in the Canary Islands, where the fault was rectified. And do you think it was Columbus who first saw land? No, no. It was a sailor on the morning watch. Later, the Pinta separated from the other two ships and rejoined after the Santa Maria was wrecked. After arriving back, Pinzon sent letters to Ferninand and Isabella asking for an audience, which was denied. An ill Pinzon returned home, where he soon died, so the ship’s subsequent fate has not been documented. However, because of her absolutely exceptional importance in history, a replica was built. And it is this replica that you will find in the harbour of Baiona. Don’t miss a visit to this ship, because it’s a real treat. I was amazed at how small a ship it is.

A RAMALLOSA

It’s hot and I approach Ramallos with slow steps. I walk along the coast, enjoying the atmosphere of the seaside towns. Ramallosa is a town that is famous for its medieval bridge. There is another bridge next door so you can take your pick. I chose the modern one so I could take a picture of the old one.

PRAIA DE AMERICA 

However, we are not staying in Ramallos, but just off the route in the beach resort of Praia de America. It is the most famous beach in Galicia, covered with fine and clean sand. I have to say that the sea is a complete balm on my feet after a day’s hike. At first I was annoyed with myself for choosing a hotel off the trail, but it turned out to be a good id

DAY 5. PLAYA AMERIA – PRIEGUE  (6,3 KM) – SARIÁNS (1 KM) – CORUXO  (4 KM) – COMESANA (2,6 KM) – MATAMÁ (1,5 KM) – VIGO (6,1 KM)

Total route: 18,4 Km (5,34 hours)

The next day we get up early as always. It’s a kind of undulating stage on small roads and leads through a picturesque forest path. Somewhere in the hills, I run into Emily again. Or else Emily catches up with me at the bottom of the hill. We laugh that she’s a bit of a stalker. We have a lot of laughs along the way. They say the people you meet on the Camino should remind you of someone in your life. I don’t think it was a coincidence that we ran into each other. I kept wondering what or who she was supposed to remind me of. I didn’t figure it out until I got home when Mirai’s song “When You Can’t Take Any More, Push On” came on. Just don’t give up, even if you’re facing a tough hill, your legs hurt and you don’t feel like it. And that’s how it should be in life. Just don’t give up! Last time I’ll see Emily in Vigo. I subsequently learn from her Instagram that she has picked up the pace a bit and will arrive in Santiago a day early. Then who is the stalker?

There are lots of different arrows all along the way. I’m often surprised at where they are. So I take pictures of the arrows and I think I have a collection full of them.

VIGO

Vigo is situated on gently sloping hills and the camino skirts the outskirts of the city. It is the largest fishing port in Spain. In fact, I only get the chance to explore it when I return from Santiago by bus. The bus passes through the centre of the town, but also around the port, and it is only here that you realise how hilly it is. Vigo is also famous for its Galician cuisine based on fresh local fish.When we go out for dinner, we are still walking downhill. I’m sure you know what I think of hills by now. 🙂 We return from dinner through different streets and to our surprise we find that there is a street with a moving conveyor belt in the middle of it. The kind you find at an airport. I won’t lie, I used it right away. 🙂

6 DAY – VIGO – CHAPELA – COTO DA FENTEIRA – REDONDELLA

Total route: 15,7 km (5 hours)

I’m only going to have a short route this day. The road passes through picturesque forest scenery before entering Redondella.

I’m enjoying the views of the houses by the sea. God, it’s so beautiful here! I stop for breakfast at a little cafe on the hill. I’m completely resigned to the hills, I just can’t get to Santiago any other way. 🙂 But even a hill like this can have its advantages, there’s a beautiful view. And it’s worth it.

REDONDELA

Redondela is a beautiful town known for its two 19th century viaducts. It is above all the place where the Central Camino joins the Coastal Camino. So you’ll encounter more pilgrims at a time, and you won’t get rid of them until the end of your journey. Suddenly it’s like you’ve lost your peace. You start running into people all the time. You find a lot of people walking at a leisurely pace, but on the other hand, some people are walking very fast, like they’re running for their lives. And you find that someone is likeable to you by sight and you want to talk to them, and someone ignores you and doesn’t smile because maybe they’re struggling with their own physique or they’re morose by nature. You definitely don’t want to talk to that person.

HORREO BUILDINGS

In Spain, you will come across small houses on high legs all the time, which inherently belong to northern Spain and therefore to Galicia. They are called HÓRREO. They are of different sizes and materials – stone, wood or brick. Almost every older house has one. And what are they for? Mostly to store grain, scrap for the chickens and so on. It was a kind of defence against mice, so they couldn’t climb up. Another reason is the humid climate of the Atlantic Ocean. This forced farmers to come up with ways to protect the grain they grew from the humidity.

DAY 7. REDONDELLA – CESANTES (3 KM) – ARCADE (3,7 KM)  – PONTAVEDRA (12,8 KM)

Total route: 20 km (6,13 hours)

I have met many pilgrims on this route, which runs mostly through the forest landscape. I’m basically doing well because the sun is not shining so brightly.

ARCADE

Arcade is an ancient town located a little further from the sea at the point where the Río Lérez begins to widen and flow into the bay. According to local legend, one of the Greek heroes returning from the Trojan War founded the first settlement here.

THE BRIDGE PONTE SAMPAIO

The Battle of the Ponte Sampaio Bridge was fought here, in which the Spanish won and forced the French to retreat.

You will then follow the paths around the vineyards or walk directly through the vineyards.

I’m referring to places where there are lots of messages, shells, but also photos. I realise that thousands of people a year pass this way. I wonder who the people were who left a message here. What led them to make this journey? What are their life stories?

PONTAVEDRA

According to legend, the town of Pontevedra was founded by Teucro after his arrival on these shores following the Trojan War. As a tribute to this legend, the Plaza del Teucro, one of the grandest squares in Pontevedra, was named after him. Today it preserves some of the noble houses that surrounded it in the 17th and 18th centuries.

The old town is typically Gallic, interspersed with cobbled streets, small squares with granite gods, arcades, flower-filled balconies and excellent bars. I drank some truly divine red wine here. The pretty historic centre of the zona monumental is made up of quiet cobbled streets.

RAVACHOL

The Plaza de la Peregrina is home to a statue of Ravachol, the talking parrot that became the mascot of Pontavedra. It belonged to the pharmacist Don Perfecto of the local pharmacy. This parrot became very popular and beloved among the visitors of the traditional pharmacy because of its nature. It alerted Don Perfecto when anyone came into the establishment and did not allow anyone to leave the pharmacy without paying.

Gradually he won the affection of the people of Pontevedra, so much so that when he died during the carnival, a massive funeral was held. Therefore, the funeral of this famous figure is renewed every year during the festivities. The statue is located in the place where the famous pharmacy was located.

8. DAY: PONTAVEDRA – SAN AMARO (8,9 KM) – A PORTELA (O,3 KM) – VALBÓN (2,2 KM)- BRIALLOS (5 KM) – TIVO (2 KM) – CALDAS DE REIS (1,8 KM)

Total distance: 21 km (6,27 h)

This is a beautiful stage on small roads. Here you will come across beautiful tiles on the walls of the houses, reminding you that you are making your way to Santiago.

You will also go through quiet forests and with one main climb to San Amaro.

But you will also pass by the vineyards again. I’m really enjoying this.

CALDAS DE REIS

Caldas De Reis is a thermal spa town at the confluence of the Umia and Barmana rivers. It was known to the Romans as Aquis Celenis. Queen Dona Urraca lived here and gave birth to her son (King Alfonso II), and these royal ties led to the name Ŕeis.

9. DAY: CALDAS DE REIS – CARRACEDO (5,4 KM) – O PINO (4,2 KM) – SAN MIGUEL DE VALGA (2,4 KM) – INVESTA/PONTECESURES (3,5 KM) – PADRÓN (2,4 KM)

Total distance: 19,7 km (5,56 hours)

This is a pleasant stage on small roads and forest paths through the valleys, leading along the Sar River to the historic town of Padrón, closely associated with St. James.

PADRÓN

Padrón is named after the Roman stone “pedron” under the altar of the Igrexa de Santiago. According to legend, it was against this stone that the boat with the body of Saint James and his disciples docked. But we are unlucky, the church is closed. In season, don’t forget to try the famous Padrón peppers. We tasted them in another place and it was like Russian roulette. Who among us will pull out the hot one? They’re delicious, but they’re awfully hot. To avoid burning your tongue, I recommend tasting the smaller ones properly burnt. But even that’s no guarantee.

It’s a quiet place. Even though we got here just as the market was going on. It was really busy, but we couldn’t resist, so we sat down and had some local specialties. I try not to overeat. It’s kind of hard to go on a full stomach. 🙂 This time I chose to live right at the train station. I’m crazy! 🙂 I didn’t even notice. For one thing, it’s pretty far from the centre, off the St. James route, and there are trains running under our windows. The hotel is called Rosalia after the writer Rosalia, who also has her museum here. Well, at least that’s it. 🙂

10. DAY: PADRÓN – A ESCRAVITUDE (5,9 KM) – A PICARANA(3,3 KM)  – FARAMELLO (1,1 KM) – TEO (0,5 KM) – RÚA DE FRANCOS (0,9 KM) – O MILLADOIRO (5,8 KM) – SANTIAGO (7,4 KM)

Total distance: 26,5 km (7,31 hours)

I’ve got the final kilometres to go. It’s not a very relaxing part, but it passes between villages and forests. It’s uphill most of the way, which is not new to me. But here you kind of feel it more or less intensely, because it’s the last kilometers to the finish.

I WANT TO BE IN FLOW!

I walk out into the day with a good mood. I have found that if I set it up in my head like this from the morning, this feeling will accompany me throughout the day. And not just this day, but every day along the entire route. That’s another thing I’d like to take away from the trip. Not only do I want to feel happy, but I want to wake up in a good mood. I don’t want to experience the stresses of work again during the day. I just want to be at ease. And to put it in the modern language of today – I WANT TO BE IN FLOW!

The weather is beautiful all the time, but today it feels kind of hot. It seems endless. I have to walk a lot on asphalt and I’m not enjoying it. I generally don’t enjoy walking on the side of the road when cars are driving past you. I find every kilometre endless, like I’m moving away and not getting closer to the end.

I feel nice, tired and sad at the same time. Sad that my wandering is about to end. And then what? I have really mixed feelings going through my head. I’m not alone anymore. There are many pilgrims around me from all over the world. A lot of them are cheerful and that makes me feel better again. We all know that we’re going to make it today. We must! We’re not going to give up before the finish line, are we?! 🙂

I come to a place where there are two bollards, and each one points in a different direction. I confess I was confused. But a laughing group of young people are standing there, shouting at me, “This way! It’s shorter this way!” I listen to them, but I check the route on the maps to make sure I am really going the right way. I don’t think I could manage the extra kilometres.

After a while, I reach the city district and my steps are already heading towards the only destination. The cathedral! God, how I’m looking forward to it! I skip lunch and am determined to make it without a break. The last three kilometres seem endless and I buy myself a cold water. I’d like to jump into a pool somewhere! I splash it in my face and the lady in the shop laughs. She says something to me in Spanish, but I can’t understand her at all. We smile at each other, she wishes me a safe trip and I start to pick up my pace.

SANTIAGO DE COMPOSTELA

I meet an older couple from New Zealand and we talk. They’re only going 100km and they’re having their suitcases transported. After all, a lot of older pilgrims use this service, where they take your suitcase or loom from place to place. And I understand that. When you’re lugging yourself across the globe, you need more stuff. I’ve only recently learned to travel light, so I’m sympathetic to a 100kg suitcase. 🙂 I’m pulling out my cell phone because I’ve somehow lost track of time, but I’ve also lost track of where I might be. This happens to me in situations where I know the other person is leading me. I don’t see any arrow. Clouds of tourists and no arrow. I’m confused! “Don’t panic! We’re here! Look up! It’s ahead!” Steven says to me. Yes, it’s ahead. I can see the spires of the cathedral.

I’m working my way through the crowds. They don’t look like pilgrims to me, but more like tourists. I don’t know why I think that, but it seems that way. After many days of relative peace and nature, it suddenly feels so strange to me. I’d say almost a shock! Such an encounter with reality! I’m back in civilization.

THE CATHEDRAL

“Here I am! It’s the famous cathedral!” I say out loud. Somehow I don’t want it to end. I’m grateful that I survived the journey, I didn’t get hurt and on the contrary, my back somehow stopped hurting. And I’m also grateful for the moments when I didn’t have to go to work, didn’t have to rush anywhere and enjoyed the present moment. And as I am so moved and standing in front of the cathedral, I suddenly want to cry. Is it even allowed to cry? Isn’t it embarrassing! Believe me, it’s not!

THE SQUARE OF JOY

I am standing in Praza do Obradoiro Square and I am full of emotions. People are hugging, jumping, just lying around, dancing, taking pictures of their legs, themselves or whole groups. And there is so much joy everywhere. Everyone is happy. Happy to have arrived, happy to have met the pilgrims they met on the way and suddenly to meet them here again.

AND WHAT IS THE SECRET OF LIFE? IN THE PRESENT MOMENT! THAT’S THE MAGIC!

I had one goal all along. To get to Santiago! And now I’ve achieved it. But what I missed and realized only here is that it is important to have dreams, not to chase only the goal, but also to enjoy the present moment. I’m standing here just observing the people around me who are mega happy and so am I! I am happy that I have made this journey. But what now? 🙂

PILGRIM’S RECEPTION OFFICE

The Pilgrim’s Reception Office is open daily from 9 am to 7 pm. The office is run by the Cathedral Church of the Archdiocese of Santiago de Compostela. I don’t know when it’s best to come here, but I was here after 1pm, lunchtime in Spain. First I go to triumphantly collect my diploma! I heard there used to be queues here, but now they’ve improved the system since the covid. Every new credential now has a QR code on it, which you scan with your phone to take you to the pilgrimage site to register. Based on that registration, you’ll get a number with a QR code that will be sent to you by text or email. For example, I didn’t receive anything by email. This QR code will identify you. Right at the entrance you will get a serial number, just like when you go to the post office. I’m lucky, there’s only one number in front of me, I basically go straight to the queue. I wasn’t expecting that. My serial number is 493.

It makes me want to laugh, and at times I despair. I hear all English around me, but only my master speaks Spanish. I can’t understand him at all. He keeps asking me questions and I don’t know what. I would so like to know what he wants to tell me, but he continues his monologue. After a while I get the final stamp of the Cathedral of Santiago and the gentleman prints me not only the Compostela, the diploma, but also the Certificate of Distance Travelled.

I walked about 200 km, not counting the kilometres I walked in towns and villages. That’s not a lot, but it’s not a little. It’s like going from Prague to Brno. 🙂 So I realize that I have done something and I am really happy about it.

PILGRIMAGE MUSEUM OR WHO WAS SAINT JACOB?

The next day I walk through the historic city centre. I feel somehow light without my backpack. 🙂 I don’t want to interrupt this moment,nevertheless? Do you know who St. James actually was? As a true pilgrim, you should definitely know if you’re walking a path named after him. I recommend you stop by the Pilgrim Museum, where you can learn a lot about James and the pilgrim’s journey.

According to legend, the apostle James worked with his disciples on the Iberian Peninsula. After some time, he returned to Jerusalem, where he died the first apostle of Christ by martyrdom. His remains were taken away and put on a boat so that they would not be dishonored. The angels guided the boat across the Mediterranean Sea and the waves washed the boat up on the Spanish coast in the harbor where Padrón is today. His body, in turn, was transported to where Santiago de Compostela is today. Indeed, archaeologists have discovered a simple building with a tomb on this site.

In the fifth book of the Codex Calixtinus, the first ever “Guide for Pilgrims” written in the 12th century about the pilgrim Francis, there is an account of the sale of shells to pilgrims outside the Cathedral of Santiago. There are many legends about how the conch became the symbol of St James. One of them says that when the ship with his martyred body was approaching Galicia, a storm caught him and he was washed overboard to be found on a beach covered with scallop shells. It is also believed that the pilgrims used the shells as a scoop for food and water.

TOMB WITH THE REMAINS OF ST. JAMES IN THE CATHEDRAL

If you’re on the St James Pilgrimage, you shouldn’t miss a visit to the tomb with the relics, which is basically why the traditional Camino was created. That is, the pilgrimage to the relics of St James.

No photographs are allowed at the tomb of St. James. But everyone here is breaking that ban, and I’m one of them.

Every pilgrim, upon arrival in Santiago, comes to embrace the statue of Saint James and to pay homage to his relics enshrined under the main altar in the cathedral. In doing so, they ask for his intercession in their lives.

MOE

Every day there is mass in Santiago. Gradually the chapel fills up and there are lots of people – pilgrims and tourists. At the beginning of the Mass, the nationalities and numbers of pilgrims who came to Santiago the previous day are listed. Then comes the Mass itself in Spanish.

The “Botafumeiro” is a censer full of charcoal and incense, manned by eight men called “tiraboleiros” who pull ropes, swing 17 times and spread incense throughout the cathedral. It is used on special occasions or by request. This tradition is said to have stood out because such an unpleasant smell came from the incoming pilgrims as they travelled for days.

OMEGA AND ALPHA

Note the inconspicuous circle on the facade of the cathedral with the depiction of Greek symbols. The alpha symbol signifies the beginning and the omega the end. But if you look at these symbols, you’ll see that they’re in reverse order. Omega and alpha symbolize the place where something old ends and something new begins. ♥

I spent 3 days in Santiago de Compostela and every day I went to the cathedral. I stood there in the arcade and watched the pilgrims coming in. And every time I was moved. The feeling is indescribable, it really has to be experienced.

I watched them and guessed where they might have come from. We all walked the same path, but everyone has their own original Camino. It’s fascinating! We each experienced something different and maybe even walked a different route. I am so grateful that I was able to meet people from all over the world and experience unplanned encounters.

But I won’t lie, it was also a great experience for me to be able to walk most of the way alone. Alone with myself and my thoughts. I think that’s the greatest asset of this whole trip! Learning to understand and understand myself! To stop clinging to what other people think. It is truly a profound, unforgettable and I would say even breathtaking experience that everyone should indulge in at least once in their lifetime. And I sincerely wish it for everyone! ♥

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