On the slopes of the green mountains of northern Thailand, hidden among the mist, pine trees and rice fields, live a people whose lives have hardly changed for centuries. They are hill tribes who have managed to maintain not only agricultural traditions, but also a rich culture, colorful clothing, handicrafts and spiritual rituals. Many travelers head to Thailand for the beaches and temples. And that’s a shame! Because if you long for a deeper understanding of the Thai soul, you will discover something extraordinary here.
In this article, I would like to take a look at the most famous hill tribes of Thailand. Come with me to discover their traditions, way of life and how to visit their villages authentically and with respect. In Chaing Rai, I visited the Hill Tribe Museum and Education Center, where I drew my knowledge from visiting and learning about the hill tribes. I would like to show you the differences between the individual groups, what unites and divides them, and why it is important to approach this type of tourism consciously. Get ready for a journey to another world, where time flows differently. Visiting a mountain village was a truly amazing experience for me.
CULTURE, TRADITIONS AND TIPS FOR AUTHENTIC EXPERIENCES
WHO ARE THE HILL TRIBES?
There are more than 1 million people living in northern Thailand who belong to one of the so-called “hill tribes”. These ethnic minorities often come from China, Laos or Burma. They settled in the Thai mountains several centuries ago. Each tribe has its own language, culture, customs and traditional clothing. At the museum I had the opportunity to get to know the most famous groups:
Karen (also Kariang / Kayin)
Hmong (often distinguished into White and Blue Hmong)
Akha
Lahu
Lisu
Yao (Mien)
While the Karens come from Myanmar. The Hmong and Mien came from southern and central China, respectively. The Lahu, Akha and Lisu tribes began their pilgrimage on the Tibetan plateau. If we were to talk about their livelihood, it can be simply expressed in three crops: opium, rice and corn. All the tribes live in remote villages. They practice animism, which is a belief in the existence of souls and spiritual beings and the cult of ancestors. Today, traditional costumes are mostly worn by women. Men rarely wear them. Each tribe has its own language, culture, traditions and rituals.
IN THE KINGDOM OF GIRAFFE WOMEN
Almost all tour operators in northern Thailand offer a visit to the village of Nai Soi on the Pai River near the Burmese border. Its inhabitants are the Padong, which is one of the Karen tribe families. For me personally, it was a very strange experience that I had never experienced before. For a long time, I didn’t even know how to react to all this.
The entire village is surrounded by a fence and you can only enter through a gate where you pay an entrance fee. The village is quiet. Only under the roofs of traditional bamboo houses can you occasionally hear the clink of a loom or children’s laughter. It echoes across the empty dirt between the wooden pillars. And it is here that you will encounter members of this tribe, who are known for lengthening their necks by gradually putting on metal rings to an incredible length. They are called “Giraffe Women”. When I first saw a woman with heavy brass rings around her neck, my breath was taken away for a moment. Not because of the “exotic” nature, but because it looks… incredible. As if you were in another world. And I really was.
At first glance, it looks like they spend their days lounging and chatting in a women’s circle. But appearances are deceiving. I won’t lie to you, I felt like I was in a human zoo. They are used to tourists here, but it took me quite a while to get my camera out and start taking pictures of them. I was totally blown away by the whole atmosphere. Such an atmosphere of mutual togetherness that is hard to describe.
WHY BRASS CIRCLES?
Women wear brass hoops from the age of five. And they can take them down once a year when they put on another hoop. Legend has it that in the past, the hoops protected them from tigers. There were a large number of them in their territory. Later, however, they became a fashion accessory that optically lengthens the neck, which is considered highly attractive. However, beauty comes at a cost even in this case. Of course, lengthening the neck is not possible from a biological point of view. Despite the myth, these spirals do not lengthen the neck, but rather compress the collarbone and shoulders downwards, creating the optical illusion of a long neck.
X-rays of many women adorned in this way gradually showed a 45-degree downward curvature of the ribs, which caused muscle weakness. The long neck is therefore just an optical illusion. Another myth is the belief that after the introduction of the rings someone’s “head will fall off”. Since stretching the neck is not physically possible, women can function without rings, and the adjustment of the muscles and strengthening of the spine after such a change takes several months.
Girls start with them as early as 5–7 years old, and every year or two more threads are added. The total weight can be up to 5 kg.
WHO ARE THE “GIRFA WOMEN”?
The long-necked women come from Burma (now Myanmar). Due to the long-lasting conflict in their homeland, many Kayan people fled across the border to Thailand in the 1980s and 1990s, where they still live in specially created villages, mainly in the Mae Hong Son or Chiang Rai areas.
A STORY OF WAR AND ESCAPE
SCHOOL WITH CIRCLES AROUND THE NECK
HOW IS LIFE FOR THEM IN THAILAND?
The situation is complicated, to say the least. Some villages are purely tourist attractions, where local tour operators take groups with guides. These places are criticized as “people’s zoos.” Other communities (e.g. Huay Pu Keng near Mae Hong Son) try to be independent and offer community tourism. Tourists stay overnight, learn about the culture, eat local food and get involved in the life of the community.
IS IT A TRADITION OR A TOURIST ATTRACTION?
This is a fundamental and often uncomfortable question. Originally, the spiral was a symbol of beauty, identity, and protection. According to some legends, women wore circles to protect them from tiger bites. Others believe that it was to deter slavers and make women less “attractive.” Today, many women themselves don’t even know the truth. Many simply say, “It’s our culture. It’s something we’ve always done.”
Today, however, the spirals also serve as a tourist attraction, which sometimes provokes great debate. Some villages were created exclusively for visitors, often without the possibility of legal work or citizenship for their inhabitants. Many women in these communities live in a kind of cultural open-air museum. They receive some money from tourists, but often without the possibility of choosing another life. Some women say that it makes them feel beautiful. Others openly admit that they do it for the tourists, because it brings income. But sometimes they also say something deeper: “What is around my neck has taught me that some traditions can bind you, and others will hold you up when you have nothing left.”
VISIT TO THE VILLAGE: WHAT YOU WILL SEE AND WHAT TO (NOT) EXPECT
The village I visited is about 45 minutes from Chiang Rai. The journey takes you through narrow roads, past fields of banana trees and bamboo. At first glance, it looks like any other Thai village: low wooden houses, dogs lying on the doorstep, chickens running around among the children.
At a second glance, you can see the difference. Women sit on the doorsteps of their homes, weaving cloth or offering visitors bracelets, scarves and cloth bags. All handmade. Some smile, others look bored. Perhaps they have seen too many curious eyes and camera flashes.
Traditional houses are on stilts. The interior of the house is simple. Inside the house it is dark and the smell of smoke wafts through it. Women mostly sit on the ground. The floor is made of dark wood and in places it is smooth. Probably from years of use. In the middle is a hearth, often raised. It is surrounded by stones or iron beams. Above it hangs a black cauldron in which rice or soup made from forest herbs is cooked.
There is minimal furniture. Low-lying mats serve as a place to sit and sleep. In larger houses there is a separate area for guests, in smaller ones everyone sleeps together. Around the walls hang weaving frames, threads, bundles of cotton and sometimes brass hoops, which the women take off only exceptionally. There are plastic buckets, a thermos of tea, stainless steel dishes and here and there a flashlight radio. The air is a mixture of smoke, dust and cooking. Light penetrates only through narrow cracks in the walls or the palm leaf roof. Actually, what I like about it is that nothing is unnecessary here.
Children are running around everywhere. Some already have small brass rings around their necks, others don’t. They go to school, they learn Thai and Kayan. Some young people want to go further into the cities, into the world. Not every girl wants to wear IUDs. But the pressure of the community and economic reality often wins.
KAYAW TRIBE
Another living tribe that lives in the village is the Kayaw ethnic subgroup. The Kayaw are known for their beautifully decorated traditional clothing. The women wear white or red tunics with hand-woven patterns. They wear many beads, necklaces and bracelets. The men often wear red turban-like headdresses and white shirts with embroidery.
This tribe is also considered one of the most skilled in handicrafts and arts, whether it be weaving, woodcarving, jewelry making, or playing musical instruments.
Although some Kayaw have converted to Christianity, many still practice animism. They believe in nature spirits, ancestors, and village spirits. They have special shrines and perform ceremonies to ensure the protection or health of the community. One of their typical customs is carving a coffin for their parents so that they can live happily, knowing that after their death, the child will have no further trouble with them.
Due to their isolated location, they traditionally live in villages in the mountains. Their houses are built on stilts and made of wood and bamboo. They make their living mainly from agriculture, growing rice, corn and vegetables. The Kayaw live a very communal lifestyle, decisions are often made collectively, and mutual assistance is a common part of everyday life.
HOW THEY LIVE IN THE VILLAGE DURING THE DAY
Women spend their days weaving scarves and clothes. They weave traditional cotton fabrics with distinctive colors and patterns. They also sell their products. Jewelry, fabrics, and souvenirs. They take tourist presentations seriously. They pose for photographers and answer questions. And of course, they do housework. They cook, take care of the children, and tend to the livestock.
Life is not easy here. Access to healthcare is limited. In some villages, women do not have citizenship and therefore no basic rights. Many make a living by “selling their culture,” even though they might want a different future. Thanks to the growing interest in ethical tourism and various initiatives, some women now have more control over what they do. But many still do not have full citizenship rights. They cannot travel freely, have no access to higher education, or healthcare outside the village.
YOU MAY LEAVE WITH MIXED FEELINGS, LIKE ME
Was it beautiful? Yes. Inspiring? Yes. But also a little sad. Because behind the smiles and beautiful colors lies the story of people who were forced to live between two worlds. Traditions and tourism. Identity and survival. Culture and commerce. And yet these women are proud, calm and strong. Whether they wear spirals out of conviction or because it is their only livelihood, they deserve respect. Not for their “exoticism”, but for their humanity.
OTHER HILL TRIBES
THE KAREN: A TRIBE THAT PROTECTS NATURE
The Karen are one of the most numerous hill tribes in Thailand. They are further divided into four subgroups and include Buddhists and Christians. The Karen believe in a soul (kalu) and not just one. They believe that there are more than one soul in each being. The most important are the souls of the eyes, ears, nose, tongue, mind and body. Many of them live in traditional bamboo houses and grow rice, corn or vegetables. They are characterized by their hand-woven clothes and, above all, a strong bond with nature. In some communities, they are known as “forest protectors” because they practice organic farming and sustainable management. The protector of nature brings offerings directly to the fields so that the Mother Goddess has enough food for the return journey to her heavenly abode.
The Karen are the only one of the six hill tribes that does not regularly smoke opium or engage in its production. Their costume consists of multi-colored tunics with a V-neck. Red, blue, and black predominate. You can recognize single girls by their tunics woven from white yarn. The latter color is a symbol of innocence, blue means fidelity, and red expresses bravery.
HMONGS: MASTERS OF HAND EMBROIDERY
The next most famous tribe is the Hmong. They are known for their colorful textile creations, which include rich embroidery. They wear black or blue blouses with a fairly simple cut. Women’s hairstyles resemble buns. Most of their villages are located at higher altitudes. They are skilled farmers and originally also grew poppy (opium), but this was banned and replaced by alternative agriculture programs.
In Hmong households, there are not only people, but also a multitude of spirits. The village is protected by the Lord of the Earth, to whom offerings are placed on a wooden board attached to the trunk of a tall tree in the grove above the village.
If you want to experience a big celebration, visit the Hmong for their New Year. They wear beautiful costumes. They play a traditional ball-throwing game (pov pob). This is often associated with finding a partner.
However, the Hmong now live not only in Thailand, but also overseas, and many of them, for example, attend leading American universities.
AKHA: THE TRIBE WITH THE MOST DISTINCTIVE HEADCOVER
Akha women wear some of the most colorful and iconic headdresses in all of Asia. They are often decorated with silver coins, beads, feathers, and colorful fabrics. The women dress in black jackets and miniskirts, decorated with colorful embroidery with the predominant colors of silver and red. They usually have countless strings of beads and hammered silver discs and crescents strung around their necks. On their heads they wear tall hats, sewn with everything possible. There are shells, beads, bells, silver coins, and colorful bird feathers. The temples are connected by other strings of beads, which sway rhythmically under the chins of their wearers as they walk. The strangest part of these hats is a wooden plate, covered with silver hammered sheet metal, which rises at the back of the head.
This tribe is the one that most closely adheres to its traditional way of life. Their culture is strongly linked to animism. They believe that spirits inhabit nature. Many villages still observe traditional rituals associated with the transitional seasons of life and harves
Legend has it that in ancient times, humans and spirits lived side by side in harmony. Humans would work their fields during the day, while spirits would farm theirs at night. The problem arose when spirits began stealing eggs from humans, and humans stole cucumbers from spirits. As the conflict continued to escalate, it was decided that humans would continue to inhabit the villages and spirits would continue to inhabit the jungle. To clearly demarcate the boundaries between the realms of spirits and humans, village gates were erected at the upper and lower ends of each settlement.
LISU/LISAM
Among the Lisu tribe, women wear blue or light green tunics with pink sleeves and narrow trousers in the same shade of pink. They also tolerate colorful piping. An important element of tribal belief is the worship of the creator spirit Wu Sa and many other spirits of the forest, ancestors, sun, moon and everyday objects.
LAHU
This tribe comes from Tibet and it is from this tribe that a large number of different ethnic groups come. The most widespread group in Thailand is the Red Lahu. But there are also Black Lahu, Yellow Lahu, who are Christians. This tribe is said to have the best egalitarian society in the world. They adhere to their values, rules and believe in mutual selfless help within the community. They grow rice and corn, but they are also excellent hunters.
Both men and women of the Lahu tribe wear black or red blouses, again lined with colorful embroidery, and like to decorate themselves with hammered silver discs. They are famous for weaving fantastically colorful bags, worn over the shoulder.
Their spirit world is ruled by a single creator god named Gujsha, who is honored primarily by the five-day New Year ceremony, ko cha lor. Gujsha’s presence is symbolized in every village by a wooden throne to which the local shaman brings the villagers to bow to his god and intercede for them. In every cottage, in a protected corner, there is an altar to the household spirit, which, if the right prayers are said and the right offerings are made, protects all its members.
MIEN ( YAO)
The Mien (Thai: Yao) practice polygamy and their women dress in black caftans with a bright red shaggy trim around the neckline, which resembles a fur collar. They wear wide dark turbans on their heads. They are the only hill tribes to have a written form of their language. However, they do not have their own script and so use Chinese script.
Their unique beliefs combine elements of Taoism with animism and ancestor worship. The most important spirits are referred to as “great spirits”. These spirits are depicted in the form of drawings that are used in important ceremonies, such as funerals. There, the great spirits are called upon to be present in each of their drawings.
This tribe is associated with a legend about a global flood caused by a god who was angry with the laziness of all mankind. Only two people survived the flood, a brother and a sister. They were forced to marry in order to have offspring together. The sister gave birth to four different children, from which four tribes later emerged: Mien, Hmong, Akha and Lahu.
WHERE TO VISIT HILL TRIBES IN THAILAND?
- Chiang Rai – Mae Salong area, Ban Lorcha (Akha community project)
- Chiang Mai – Doi Inthanon, Ban Mae Klang Luang (Karens)
- Mae Hong Son – Pai, Soppong and surroundings
- Nan a Phrae – less touristy areas with Lahu and Yao
WHEN YOU DECIDE TO VISIT HILL TRIBES, TRAVEL ETHICALLY AND WITH RESPECT
Many hill tribes live in poverty and therefore you should approach them with respect:
Respect and do not photograph hill tribes without permission.
Buy products directly from the locals.
Don’t try to change their way of life, but learn from it.
Don’t buy trips to tourist villages that are “stop for 10 minutes for a selfie.
DO HILL TRIBES SPEAK THAI?
Many tribes speak basic Thai, especially the younger generation. Older people mainly speak their own language (e.g. Karen or Hmong). In tourist areas, you can also communicate in English. I sometimes communicated with my hands and feet.
WHY ARE THE HILL TRIBES OF THAILAND WORTH GETTING TO KNOW?
The hill tribes are not just an “ethnographic attraction”, but a living and evolving part of Thai culture. Their relationship with nature, their way of life and their resilience to modern pressures offer us important lessons about balance, respect and community.
If you decide to meet them with an open heart and a sense of responsibility, you will not only have a trip, but I think a profound human experience.
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