China is huge, fascinating, romantic and shocking. In short, it’s a different planet. It’s organized chaos. If you’re a loner, you definitely shouldn’t go there. Zdeněk, my classmate from elementary school, hammered into our heads that he would go to China and train karate there. He used to tell us: “A healthy body, a healthy mind.” I was little and it was so far away to China, almost like the moon. We looked for China on the map and everything around it seemed so mysterious to me. I haven’t seen Zdeněk since elementary school and I don’t even know if he fulfilled his childhood dream. I was lucky enough to visit China. When I saw everyone dancing and exercising on the streets, I immediately remembered Zdeněk and his healthy mind. 🙂
BE PREPARED THAT MANY PEOPLE DON’T SPEAK ENGLISH
Personally, I find this language very melodious. On the way, I met a lot of nice people who tried to help me when I got lost. That’s very easy in the streets of China. I thought that at least the young people would know English. But that’s a really wrong idea. Most of the time, they’re sentences like: “Can I help you?” When I happily started explaining to them that I was lost and took out my map, they just shrugged and wanted to take the map. 🙂
GREAT WALL OF CHINA
I think a lot has been written about the Great Wall of China, so I won’t bore you with its history here. What fascinates me about it is that it is one of the largest structures in history that is visible from space. It is an incredible 8,851 km long. The famous Silk Road ran through it. One of the reasons why the Chinese created it was silk, which they guarded very hard so that no one would take it out of China. Limestone, granite and burnt bricks were used as building materials. There are towers on almost every elevated point. These were built as observation posts, but the larger ones also served as weapons depots. One of my great experiences was not only walking along it and letting its enormous energy be absorbed, but also going down the bobsleigh track. Few people would have expected this here.
1. Badaling: The most visited part of the wall
- Distance from Beijing: 70 km (about 1.5 hours drive).
- Transport:
- By train: Nejrychlejší a pohodlný způsob. Vlak z nádraží Beijing North (Beijing Bei Zhan) vás doveze na stanici Badaling Great Wall (asi 1 hodinu). Odtud je to 10 minut pěšky k hlavnímu vstupu.
- By bus: Autobus č. 877 odjíždí z přestupního terminálu Deshengmen. Cesta trvá 1,5 hodiny a autobus vás vysadí přímo u vstupu.
- Organized tour: Nabízejí jej prakticky všechny hotely a turistické agentury v Pekingu. Výhodou je průvodce a bezstarostná doprava.
2. Mutianyu: Klidnější a malebnější alternativa
- Distance from Beijing: 80 km (about 2 hours drive).
- Transport:
- By private car or taxi: Ideal for those looking for comfort, you can hire a driver for the whole day and the trip will cost you 500-800 CNY (depending on the distance and bargaining).
- By bus: From Dongzhimen, there is a direct tourist bus No. 916 Express to Huairou town, from where you can take a taxi to Mutianyu. The total journey time is about 2 hours.
- Organized tour:The advantage is that transport directly to the location and sometimes lunch is included in the price.
3. Jiankou: Divoká a autentická část zdi
- Distance from Beijing: 100 km (about 2–3 hours drive).
- Transport:
- By private car or taxi: The easiest way to get to Xizhazi village, which is the starting point for the Jiankou hike.
- By bus: From Dongzhimen, take bus No. 916 Express to Huairou. From there, take a taxi to Xizhazi Village.
Note: Jiankou is not a reconstructed section of the wall, so the hike here is more physically demanding. It is more suitable for more experienced travelers.
4. Simatai: Zeď pod hvězdami
- Distance from Beijing: 140 km (about 2,5 hours drive).
- Transport:
- Organized tour: Due to the greater distance, it is best to choose an organized trip that includes round-trip transportation.
- Public transport: Bus from Dongzhimen to Miyun town, from where you continue by taxi to Simatai.
Simatai is famous for its night entrance, so if you’re looking for a unique experience, it’s worth the trip.
TERRACOTTA ARMY
GUARDIIANS OF THE IMPERIAL REST
The Terracotta Army is one of the greatest archaeological discoveries of the 20th century and undoubtedly one of China’s most important cultural treasures. It is incredibly interesting that the Terracotta Army was only recently discovered by local farmers who discovered this beauty while digging a well in the 1970s.
Qin Shi Huang, the first emperor of the Qin Dynasty, was known for his ambition to unify China and create a centralized government. His tomb, which took 38 years to build, is a testament to his greatness and desire for immortality. The Terracotta Army was created to protect him in the afterlife.
Each of the more than 8,000 soldiers, dozens of chariots and horses, has been hand-crafted with unique detail – no two statues are exactly alike. The army includes infantry, archers, officers and generals. Each soldier has a unique expression, hairstyle, clothing and even weaponry, demonstrating the incredible craftsmanship of the time.
WHAT DOES THE TERRACOTTA ARMY LOOK LIKE?
The Terracotta Army is spread out in three main pits, representing different parts of the army:
- Pit 1: The largest and most famous, it contains mainly infantry and chariots.
- Pit 2: It contains various types of soldiers, including archers and cavalry units.
- Pit 3: Considered the headquarters of the army.
The statues are made of fired clay and were originally richly painted. Although most of the colors have faded, some of the statues still bear traces of pigment. Many of the soldiers hold original weapons such as swords, spears, or bows, which speaks of their combat readiness.
The interesting thing is that each of the soldiers is an original piece. They have a different face, a different stance or different equipment. It is a truly impressive and amazing spectacle. You will also find baskets with fragments of individual soldiers, which archaeologists are gradually putting together here. The soldiers are almost 2 meters tall and weigh around 100 kg. It is very interesting that when they were discovered, the soldiers were colorful and painted. Unfortunately, as soon as daylight reached them, they faded. There is such a strange atmosphere throughout the whole place, almost chilling. It is said that the entire army has a hidden message. However, no one here will tell you that.
The tomb is located near the Chinese city of Xi’an in Shaanxi Province in a place called Lishan. The best way to get to the site is by taking bus 306 from Xi’an Railway Station. Be prepared for a crazy line. However, it moves very quickly and is definitely worth the wait. The site features huge excavation pits where you can find an army of thousands of life-size clay soldiers. These soldiers were supposed to serve as the army of Emperor Qing Shihuangdi.
By the way, do you know what the word terracotta means? The dictionary of foreign words says that it is a type of burnt clay of a brownish-red color.
CITY LI- T’IANG
TREASURE OF SOUTHWEST CHINA
WHERE TIME STOPPED
The picturesque town of Lijiang is located in southwestern China on the border with Vietnam in Yunnan Province, which boasts not only beautiful landscapes, but also a large number of ethnic minorities with a unique culture. The town is amazing in that it lies in the Chengtuan Mountains. You will find traditional dwellings with white walls and black roofs and beautifully carved wooden panels. Between the houses are narrow cobblestone streets that climb steep hills. The city is crisscrossed by canals.
With its narrow cobblestone streets, traditional architecture and majestic mountains on the horizon, it will transport you back to ancient China. This gem, which is listed as a UNESCO World Heritage Site, has retained a unique charm thanks to its connection with the culture of the Naxi ethnic minority and centuries of history. The atmosphere here is absolutely amazing, peaceful, authentic and full of romance. Visiting Lijiang means walking through the labyrinth of alleys, admiring traditional wooden houses, listening to the murmur of canals and enjoying the views of the surrounding mountains, especially the Jade Dragon Mountain.
Be sure to go to the lookout point above the city sometime in the morning, when other tourists are still sleeping, and you will have a wonderful view of the quiet town with houses immersed in the twilight.
TRADITIONAL HOUSES AS ACCOMMODATION
I fell in love with this place at first sight because of the local atmosphere. You will find beautiful family-run hotels here, where you can enjoy not only traditional architecture, but also cups of fresh green tea prepared by locals. Each such house is entered from the street through a high threshold into the courtyard, around which there is a living room. It is actually the heart of the house. Most houses have beautifully painted or carved wooden doors.
In this historic town, you will find many shops with traditional local products, as well as kitschy souvenirs, restaurants offering regional cuisine, cafes, and even a Western McDonald’s in a wooden house.
OLD TOWN LIJIANG (DAYAN ANCIENT TOWN)
Lijiang Old Town is the heart of the area. It is known for its cobblestone streets, canals and stone bridges. Walking here is like traveling back in time – no modern buildings, just traditional wooden houses with carved details.
MY TIP
Go early in the morning when the city is quiet, or in the evening when the streets are lit by lanterns.
BLACK DRAGON POOL
This park is one of the most picturesque places in Lijiang. The clear water of the pond reflects the silhouette of Jade Dragon Mountain (Yulong Xueshan) in the background. Traditional pavilions, bridges and pagodas make this place a paradise for photography lovers.
MY TIP
The best time to visit is early in the morning, when the air is fresh and the reflections in the pond are the clearest.
WISHING TREES
Wishing trees are a fascinating phenomenon that connects different cultures around the world. I have already met many when I traveled around Asia and have already made wishes on some of them. Well, I always make a wish that I wish I knew English. 🙂 So I don’t know if I pronounce the wish correctly. 🙂 It is actually an ancient custom in which people hang their requests, dreams or wishes on trees in the belief that they will come true. These trees, often surrounded by an aura of spirituality and mysticism, as a symbol of hope.
Wishing trees are closely connected to the Taoist faith in Chinese culture. In temples or sacred areas, people hang red leaves or ribbons with written wishes on the branches of trees. How do wishing trees work? The principle of wishing trees is simple: People write or say their dreams and hang them on a tree, often using colored ribbons, pieces of paper or small objects. The colors of the ribbons or pieces of paper often have a specific meaning. For example, red in China symbolizes happiness and prosperity, while white can represent purity or reconciliation.
VISIT TO A CHINESE RESTAURANT
I think everyone knows Chinese cuisine. The Chinese are among the nations that have managed to spread their cuisine all over the world. Not only Chinese restaurants, but entire Chinatowns are located in larger cities on all continents. However, these are restaurant establishments that are slightly different from those in China. They are adapted to the place in which they are located. I would say that in general, dishes prepared directly in China are more spicy and sharp. Here you can also get fries as a side dish. I have never seen this anywhere in China. Most of the time, you will not find cutlery anywhere, as here.
The ancient town of Lijiang is not only an architectural gem, but also a paradise for gourmets. Dining in Lijiang is a unique opportunity to taste local cuisine inspired by the culture of the Naxi ethnic group, mountainous areas and traditional Chinese recipes. Whether you wander the winding streets of the Old Town or visit local markets, an experience full of aromas, colors, and flavors awaits you.
Rýži se tu připravuje tak, že musí lepit, aby se dala nabírat hůlkami. Mnoho lidí si myslí, že místo hovězího masa dostanete psí maso. No, sice nikdy nemáte záruku, že nejíte psa, ale věřte, že psí maso je tady dosti drahé. Většina Číňanů si objednává různorodá jídla, která tak představují vícechodové menu s menšími porcemi. Najdete tu spoustu delikates. Nejedna duše gurmána tady zaplesá.
In the evening, the streets are filled with stalls offering grilled food, noodles and sweets. The markets are the perfect place to sample local delicacies and soak up the city’s atmosphere. Naxi cuisine combines mountain ingredients, simple cooking techniques and an emphasis on freshness.
And what I tasted:
- Mountain-style grilled fish: Fish prepared over an open fire with aromatic spices, garlic and chili.
- Yellow pea cake (baba): A pancake made from pea flour that is fried until golden brown. It is ideal as a snack on the go.
- Dried yak meat: A popular specialty that has a mildly salty taste. Dried meat is often served as a side dish with other dishes.
- Candied fruit on a stick: A popular sweet that includes fruit such as apples or grapes coated in a caramel glaze.
- Black butter tea: A traditional Tibetan-influenced drink made with tea, yak butter and salt.
TRADITIONAL DANCES OF THE NAXI MINORITY
One of the most vivid and authentic experiences you can take away from Lijiang is watching (or better yet, participating in) traditional street dances. You guessed it, I participated too. Dancing is an important part of the culture of the Naxi ethnic minority, who have lived here for centuries. For the locals, it is not only a form of entertainment, but also a way to keep traditions alive and welcome visitors.
MY TIP
WHERE AND WHEN IS THE DANCE DONE?
Every evening, mainly at Sifangjie Square in the heart of Lijiang Old Town, local people gather to dance traditional Naxi dances.
- Time: The dances usually start at sunset and continue until the evening. The atmosphere is relaxed and friendly, so you can join in at any time.
- Locations: In addition to Sifangjie Square, you can also see dances in smaller alleys, especially during festivals or celebrations.
For the locals, dancing is not just a form of entertainment, but also an important tool for preserving their culture and passing it on to future generations. Dancing in the streets brings together people of all ages – from the elderly, who pass on the steps to the young, to children who have been learning the dances since they were little. In the streets, you can find many Naxi people who always dance in the streets in the morning. They make a circle and put a magnet in the middle. And everyone holds hands and dances. Anyone who wants to can join in. So of course I joined in. 🙂
And what does such a dance look like? The dances are often circular – people hold hands and move to the rhythm of traditional music. The steps are relatively simple, which allows even novices (like me) to easily join in. The rhythms and melodies are sung or played on traditional instruments such as the lute, pipa, or flutes. Some dances tell stories from Naxi history or mythology, while others celebrate nature, the seasons, or the togetherness of the community.
Don’t be afraid to join! No one expects you to be a perfect dancer. The locals will appreciate your effort and enthusiasm. Plus, they are very friendly and will be happy to teach you the basic steps. You don’t need any previous experience – just a good mood and a desire to dance. If you are not sure how to start, you can watch others for a while and join in later.
CHINESE GREEN TEA
LIQUID TREASURE OF THE CHINESE MOUNTAINS
The town of Lijiang was founded at the crossroads of trade routes connecting southern China with Nepal, India and Burma, where tea cargoes passed. Tea smells everywhere here and it would be a sin not to buy at least one. Why is Lijiang tea special? Lijiang is located in an area with ideal conditions for growing tea. The high altitude, clean air and fertile soil rich in minerals create an ideal environment for tea bushes to grow. Green tea from this area is characterized by a delicate and refreshing taste, which often contains light floral and grassy tones. In addition, Yunnan, the province where Lijiang is located, is considered the cradle of the tea plant. Wild tea trees in this area are hundreds, sometimes even thousands of years old, which is evidence of a long tradition of tea cultivation.
TYPES OF TEA IN LIJIANG
Mao Feng Green Tea
Wild mountain tea
The tea trees that grow wild in the mountains around Lijiang produce a unique tea with a more pronounced flavor. This tea often contains light notes of wild flowers and herbs.
Jasmine green tea
Lijiang is also known for producing jasmine-infused green tea, an aromatic tea that combines the freshness of green tea with the delicate scent of jasmine.
BUYING CHINESE TEA
Buying such tea is not easy at all, because almost no one speaks English here. I decided to buy green tea in such a small shop. I would like to note at the beginning that the young man only sold tea there. When I asked him if I wanted green tea, he just rolled his eyes and said he didn’t know what I wanted from him. Then he just smiled and told me to wait a moment.
After a while, five young men came, took out their mobile phones and started looking up the meaning of “green tea” in the dictionary. When they found it, they were so excited that they almost danced. In the end, we agreed that I would buy Oolong, jasmine and Pu-Erh. We thanked each other and I left with an amazing experience. When I left, I remembered that I could buy another Oolong for my parents. Do you know what happened next? He glared at me again and the whole scene repeated itself. I showed him that I wanted the same box, but that didn’t help either. He called his friends again. Every time I think about it now, I have to laugh. After all, I only wanted to buy tea. 🙂
VILLAGE BAISHA AND DOCTOR HO
I really wanted to visit the village of Baisha. This village is actually made up of one street. Basically, there is nothing to suggest that Baisha was the main center of the Nasi minority kingdom until the 13th century. One of the big reasons why I wanted to visit this village is that it is home to Dr. Ho, who is said to have healing powers and can cure anything. He has truly become a legend and you can find many articles about him. He is said to even be able to cure cancer. The walls of his house are covered with framed newspaper articles in all the world’s languages. I only caught a glimpse of this healer in front of the door, he was smiling, but since there were a lot of people waiting for him there, I finally gave up waiting and walked around the village.
It was quite funny how we got to the village. Since it is quite close to the town of Lijiang, we decided to take the bus. But when we got to the bus stop, strangely enough, everything was in Chinese. We didn’t even know if we were on the right side. So we headed to the local travel agency to get some advice. They must know English there. Wrong! They didn’t know English here either, but at least they understood where we wanted to go. They wrote something in Chinese on a note and told us to give it to the bus driver. I still wonder what was written on that note, because he was smiling very slyly.
HOW TO TRANSPORT IN CHINA
No, don’t worry, I won’t make you ride a donkey (pictured). Although. 🙂 Traveling by bus is one of the most affordable and widespread ways to get around China. The bus network covers both large cities and remote villages. I’ve taken local buses here. These buses usually travel short distances and stop at regular stops. The advantage is low prices (usually ¥1-3 per ride). Some buses have a fixed price, others use a distance-based fare. I recommend having some small coins ready.
HOW DO YOU BUY A TICKET?
Many timetables and signs at bus stops are only in Chinese. If you don’t speak Chinese, I recommend using a translator or a mobile map app. I even needed to stop at a bus stop once. Most people in China don’t speak English, so I did it by going to a local travel agency and the lady wrote a message on a slip for the driver. Too bad I lost the slip, but I imagine it said: “Throw that idiot out at the next stop.” 🙂
MOUNTAINS OF JADE DRAGON
I always wanted to go on an expedition to the mountains. To be a real mountaineer who climbs a mountain and has to overcome various obstacles. Since I don’t have the physical strength for it, it doesn’t seem like a possibility yet. I haven’t managed to do that yet, but I was lucky to get to such beautiful mountains. And colorful flags all around, in short, the Jade Dragon Mountains. The park administration is located at an altitude of 3,037 meters above sea level. The second highest cable car in the world took us to an incredible 4,506 meters. You can also buy oxygen cylinders here if you don’t manage to climb. Since I’m a slob, I can’t resist and buy two bombs. We also rent a winter jacket, because it looks like it’s going to be really cold here. We get there by bus over the switchbacks and climb through the forest. You can even see the remains of snow, right up to the bottom of the cable car.
This area consists of high mountain meadows, where you can occasionally see goats, horses, and yaks. Gradually, the forest disappears and we find ourselves in the kingdom of ice and snow. Not only is the landscape changing, but the air is also becoming thinner. Beautiful snow-capped mountains can be seen in the distance. We ended up not using the oxygen tank. I don’t know what came over me, but I decided to keep the tank and bring it home as a souvenir. Now I know that it was one of the stupidest ideas I’ve ever had. When they were X-raying my suitcase at the airport, something didn’t feel right. They asked me what I had in my suitcase. I replied that I had a bomb. So you can imagine what happened next…..:-)))
