The city of Hanoi is the first stop in Vietnam for many travelers. At first glance, it may seem chaotic. You will find thousands of scooters, narrow streets, noisy markets and the omnipresent honking of horns. But once you look around a little and start to smell the aromas wafting from the street stalls, you will quickly understand one thing. Hanoi is a food lover’s paradise!
The Vietnamese capital is one of the best places in the whole country to experience authentic Vietnamese cuisine. Many iconic dishes originated here and are still prepared according to traditional recipes. So if you are wondering what to try in Hanoi, get ready for a culinary journey full of broths, herbs, grilled meats and surprising combinations of flavors.
HANOI AS A GASTRONOMIC ADVENTURE
Hanoi is not only a historic city full of temples, lakes and old colonial houses. It is also one of the best gastronomic places in all of Asia. You just have to get lost in the alleys of the old city, let yourself be guided by the aromas from the street stalls and taste. Because food is one of the best ways to get to know Vietnam, its culture, traditions and everyday life. And in Hanoi this is doubly true.
DOG MEAT
Eating dog meat in Hanoi is a big topic. And so I’m writing about it right at the beginning, because I know that this is what interests you the most. Can you taste dog meat in Hanoi? The answer is “YES”. For some, it may be a centuries-old tradition, for others it may be a culture shock. You may find the sight of dog dishes on offer terrifying, but for some locals it is a deeply rooted custom associated with the belief that it strengthens the body and brings good luck.
Hanoi has historically been considered the main center of dog meat consumption (Thịt chó in Vietnamese) in northern Vietnam. The meat is traditionally consumed towards the end of the lunar month, because people believe that this dish can “drive away bad luck”.
Since 2018, Hanoi authorities have openly urged residents to stop eating dog and cat meat. The reason for this is an effort not to damage the image of the modern metropolis among foreign visitors and also to prevent the spread of dangerous diseases such as rabies.
And how does such meat taste? In terms of taste, the meat is compared to a more pronounced, dark beef or venison. It is often served with aromatic herbs such as Thai basil or lemongrass leaves. The main problem that is affecting Vietnamese society today is the origin of the animals. A large part of the dogs that end up in kitchens are not raised on farms, but come from the black market.
As a visitor to Hanoi, you will probably not encounter dog meat in regular tourist restaurants. Don’t worry. Pho or bun cha soup does not contain dog meat. I just saw them on the street and the owner really pushed me to take a picture. 🙂
While dog meat has not completely disappeared from the streets of Hanoi, the city is visibly striving for reform and moving towards a future where dogs are considered exclusively “man’s best friend.”
MICHELIN AND BIB GOURMAND
The arrival of the Michelin Guide to Vietnam in 2023 meant that inspectors inspected hundreds of establishments, revealing to the world what locals have long known. There are currently 60 restaurants in Hanoi that are part of the Michelin Guide. And there may be more by now.
But why are there so many restaurants in Hanoi with this prestigious award? It’s not just about luxury, but rather about a combination of deep tradition, incredible freshness and cutting-edge modern gastronomy.
The cuisine of Northern Vietnam is known for its delicacy, balance of flavors and emphasis on original recipes. Restaurants awarded one star offer authentic dishes, cooked according to recipes passed down for generations. Michelin appreciates that these establishments retain their “soul”. That is, traditional flavors that are often lost in the modern world.
Many people perceive any Michelin award as a “star”, but the guide uses several categories. This is why there are so many awarded places in Hanoi:
MICHELIN STAR
Only a few top restaurants, such as Gia, Hibana by Koki or Tầm Vị, hold a real star (so far only one in Hanoi).
BIG GOURMAND
This category is unique for “great food at a reasonable price”. It is often awarded to places that look very simple. You often sit in them on plastic chairs on the street. Michelin inspectors appreciate that the quality of the ingredients and the precise preparation technique (for example, for pho or bun cha) is so high that it surpasses many luxury restaurants in the West.
This includes many Hanoi bistros with Pho or Bun Cha.
MICHELIN SELECTED
Restaurants recommended by inspectors that do not have a star, but meet high quality standards.
THE PHENOMENON NAMED PHO – THE SOUP THAT CONQUERED THE WORLD
There is probably no Vietnamese dish as famous as Pho. And Hanoi is considered its birthplace. Pho is an aromatic soup with rice noodles, herbs and meat, most often beef or chicken. The base is a broth that is cooked for many hours with spices such as star anise, cinnamon or cloves.
The history of this legendary soup is as tangled as a ball of rice noodles. If you were looking for one specific “birth certificate”, I will disappoint you. The soup was created by the gradual tuning of flavors and influences that simply “met” in one bowl over the years. Originally, recipes were passed down mainly by word of mouth, from chef to chef, until Hanoi (where the first written mentions of the soup are found) became the world capital of broth.
And how does Europe fit into this? It may surprise you, but we owe the soul of Pho to the French. When the French colonized Vietnam in the 19th century, they brought with them their love of beef. Specifically, the dish bœuf bourguignon. Until then, Vietnamese cuisine had been based more on pork, but under French influence, beef bones and pieces of meat began to be cooked in large quantities.
The key to the name is probably the French term pot-au-feu (translated as “pot on fire”). The French saw giant steaming cauldrons on the streets of Vietnamese cities and began to call the soup “feu” (fire) for short. The Vietnamese slightly modified the word to suit their pronunciation, and the iconic Phở was born. And even though the north and south of Vietnam still argue about who cooks it better and who actually invented it, one thing is certain: without this historical intersection of cultures, we would have nothing to sip today.
A PHOTO LOVER’S LITTLE DICTIONARY
There is no Pho like Pho. To avoid looking like a beginner in a bistro, it’s good to know these basic terms:
Phở bò: Classic with beef.
Phở gà: Poultry variant (chicken/hen).
Phở chay: Vegetarian version, where meat is replaced by tofu and vegetable broth (be careful, it is sometimes seasoned with fish sauce anyway!).
Phở đẹp cẩm: An “all-in-one” variant – meat, tofu, in short, a real treat.
HIGHER GIRLS: HOW TO ORDER MEAT?
True connoisseurs choose Pho based on how the meat is prepared. And you might be surprised, but you can find these methods on the menu. And I would say that this is where the real science begins:
Tái: My favorite. Thin slices of raw meat are paired in a bowl with hot broth. The result? The meat is beautifully pink and incredibly tender.
Chín: For those who don’t like to experiment. The meat is fully cooked (“well done”).
Gầu: Variants for lovers of more meat. Nạm is leaner beef flank, while Gầu is fatter, which gives the broth the right “grades”.
Gân: If you come across this word on the menu, expect beef tendons and scallions in the broth. They are full of collagen and melt on the tongue after a long pull.
Whichever option you choose, don’t forget the lime and herbs, without them it’s like sirloin without cranberries.
HOW IS PHO PROPERLY SERVED AND EAT?
When a bowl is placed in front of you in a restaurant, the process is not over, but just beginning. The soup is served with a plate of fresh ingredients, which everyone can add to taste. Lime juice is essential to balance the flavors. Fresh chili peppers or sriracha sauce are added for spiciness. The correct way to hold the chopsticks is to hold the spoon in your right hand and the spoon in your left. You use the chopsticks to scoop up a portion of the noodles and meat, place them on a spoon with a little broth, and eat them together.
In Hanoi, pho is traditionally eaten in the morning. Just walk the streets of the old city and you will see small stalls where steam rises above large pots and people sit on low plastic stools. A bowl of pho is simple but perfectly balanced. The delicate broth, soft noodles, fresh herbs, and lime create a taste that is unforgettable.
HOW TO KNOW A REAL BROTH FROM A SUBSTITUTE?
The basis of every good Pho Bo is a clear but flavorful broth. In authentic recipes, this is prepared for 10 to 13 hours. A specific aroma is given to it by a mixture of spices that you would look for in vain in a regular Czech broth. An essential sign of quality is certainly its appearance and purity. An honest broth should be clear and transparent, not cloudy. If there are small droplets of fat floating in it (the so-called “golden eyes” coming from the bone marrow), this is a good sign. This means that the base was made from real beef bones.
Thanks to the long pulling of the bones, natural gelatin is released. The broth should have a slightly velvety, almost oily consistency on the tongue, not watery. You should already smell the specific aroma of star anise, cinnamon, ginger and roasted onion when you enter the restaurant. If you only smell salt or artificial flavorings, something is wrong.
Taste without “chemistry.” Authentic broth has a natural sweetness from bones and root vegetables, not from excess glutamate or sugar.
HERB GARDEN IN A BOWL
Herbs are not just a garnish, they add the necessary freshness to the soup, which balances the fatty beef base. You should not miss these types in an authentic serving:
Coriander (Cilantro): A complete base. Both the leaves and often the stem are used for a more intense flavor.
Thai basil: It has a slightly aniseed and peppery aroma that perfectly complements the beef.
Spring onions: When finely chopped, it adds a subtle heat and crunch.
Mint: It often appears mainly in southern variants of Pho (Saigon style), it adds a cooling and refreshing element.
Mexican coriander (Ngò gai): It has serrated leaves and a much stronger aroma than classic coriander. You can recognize it in better Vietnamese bistros by its stiff, pointed leaves.
Mung bean sprouts: Technically not an herb, but it belongs in the dish for its texture and ability to soak up hot broth.
TRICK FOR COLLAGEN DETECTION
Did you know there’s an interesting trick to detect collagen? If you drop a little red chili sauce or other food coloring into the broth and the color immediately and evenly disperses, it means the broth has the right texture thanks to the long draw of the bones. If the color stays in “chunks” or separates, the broth lacks the right strength from the bones.
KDE OCHUTNAT NEJLEPŠÍ PHO?
Phở 10 Lý Quốc Sư is one of the most famous restaurants in Hanoi, specializing in traditional Pho (Phở Bò). Located in the historic Old Quarter, it has been awarded the Bib Gourmand award for excellent food at a reasonable price. Guests often sit at shared tables, but that’s not a problem. The kitchen is separated from the dining room by a glass wall, so you can watch the preparation.
MAP
Address: 10 P. Lý Quốc Sư, Hàng Trống, Hoàn Kiếm, Hanoi
BUN CHA – GRILLED MEAT WITH NOODLES
One of the most typical dishes of Hanoi is Bun cha. At first glance, this dish looks inconspicuous. A bowl of grilled pork in a light broth, next to a plate of rice noodles and a large pile of herbs. But the magic lies in its simplicity. The meat is grilled over charcoal, which gives it a slightly smoky flavor. The noodles are dipped in a bowl of fish sauce, sugar, lime and chili.
WHERE TO TASTE THE BEST BUN CHA?
Known worldwide as “Obama Bun Cha,” Bún Chả Hương Liên is a legendary Hanoi restaurant that became a symbol of Vietnamese street food thanks to the historic visit of US President Barack Obama in May 2016.
President Barack Obama dined here with acclaimed chef and host Anthony Bourdain during the filming of an episode of Parts Unknown. Their casual encounter on small blue plastic stools over a $6 dinner went viral, turning the establishment into a global tourist attraction.
The table at which the two men sat, including their plates and bottles of beer, was placed in a glass case by the owners as a permanent reminder of the event.
Address: The original and most famous branch is located at 24 P. Lê Văn Hưu, Hai Bà Trưng, Hà Nội.
MAP:
VIETNAMESE SPRING ROLLS
Vietnamese spring rolls are known as Nem rần in northern Vietnam. These crispy rolls are a key part of traditional Vietnamese cuisine and are often served as a side dish to the popular Hanoian dish Bun Cha. They are wrapped in thin rice paper, which becomes very crispy and golden brown when fried. They usually contain minced pork, glass noodles, black mushrooms (Judas’ ear), eggs and finely chopped vegetables such as carrots and kohlrabi. They are often served with fresh herbs, salad and a sweet and sour sauce (Nước chấm) based on fish sauce.
WHERE TO TASTE THE BEST NEM BRAN?
I tasted delicious spring rolls at the legendary Hanoi restaurant Bún Chả Đắc Kim. This establishment is considered an “institution” of Hanoi street food and is one of the oldest and most famous places where you can taste authentic (grilled pork with noodles). Don’t expect luxury. It is a typical Vietnamese bistro with several floors, narrow stairs and low plastic chairs. It is very busy, noisy and often full of tourists and locals. The restaurant is regularly recommended in prestigious guides such as the Michelin Guide (Bib Gourmand category) or Lonely Planet. The portions here are very generous. If you are not extremely hungry, one “combo” (Bún chả + roll) often fills two people.
ADDRESS: Located in the heart of Hanoi’s Old Quarter, at 1 Hang Manh Street.
MAP:
BANH MI – VIETNAMESE BAGUETTE
Another icon of Vietnamese street food is the Banh mi sandwich. It is a great example of how Vietnamese cuisine was inspired by French colonial history. It is based on a crispy baguette, which is filled with various ingredients. Namely meat, pâté, pickled vegetables, coriander, chili and sauces.
The result is an incredibly tasty sandwich that mixes salty, sour, sweet and spicy flavors. It’s also one of the quickest and cheapest meals you can have in Hanoi.
WHERE TO TASTE THE BEST BANH MI?
Banh Mi 25 is probably the most popular stop for Vietnamese baguettes in Hanoi’s Old Quarter. Established in 2014, this family-run business has grown from a small street stall to a legendary spot frequented by tourists and locals alike. The baguettes are renowned for their lightness. Extremely crispy on the outside and soft on the inside. Unlike many traditional stands, Banh Mi 25 offers a wide selection of fillings, including beef, chicken, and delicious vegetarian and vegan options (such as avocado or mushrooms). Even when the place is busy, service is quick and you usually don’t have to wait more than 10-15 minutes for your food.
Try the Bánh Mì Thập Cẩm (a mix of pâté and meat) or the Honey Grilled Chicken with avocado.
Address:25 P. Hàng Cá, Hoàn Kiếm, Hanoi
MAP:
BANH CUON – SOFT RICE ROLLS
If you want to taste something typical of northern Vietnam, try Banh cuon. These are very thin steamed rice cakes filled with minced pork and mushrooms and served with fish sauce, herbs and crispy fried onions.
The preparation is fascinating. The kitchen is often right on the street, and the chefs pour the rice batter onto a stretched canvas over steam, where it turns into a delicate, thin pancake in a matter of seconds.
VIETNAMESE COFFEE
After a good meal, it’s time for coffee. And Hanoi is a true paradise for coffee lovers. Vietnam is one of the largest coffee producers in the world and the local method of preparation is unique. Coffee is prepared using a small metal filter called a phin.
Very popular is iced coffee ca phe sua da, which is served with condensed milk. But in Hanoi you can also taste a very special specialty egg coffee. It is coffee with a sweet creamy foam made from whipped egg yolk and condensed milk. The taste is surprisingly delicate and reminds a bit of the dessert Tiramisu. I can’t tell you where to taste the best coffee. I liked it everywhere. 🙂
STREET FOOD AS PART OF LIFE
Hanoi is world-famous for its street food scene. One of the greatest experiences in Hanoi is not just the food itself, but the way it is eaten. Street food stalls are everywhere. Small plastic chairs, simple tables and kitchens right on the sidewalk. People sit close together, chatting, laughing and enjoying their food. The atmosphere is lively, noisy and authentic. And it is in these small stalls that you will often find the best food.
Michelin has changed its strategy in recent years to also recognize authentic, humble establishments that focus on one thing and do it perfectly, which has led to dozens of Hanoi eateries making it into the guide that would have previously gone unnoticed.
Bún đậu
Bún đậu is one of the most characteristic and controversial dishes of Hanoi street food. It is famous for its extremely aromatic fermented shrimp sauce, mắm tôm, which is loved by locals but can be a challenge for foreigners. The dish is traditionally served on a bamboo tray lined with banana leaves and contains: Bún: Pressed cubes of rice noodles. + Đậu: Freshly fried tofu that is crispy on the outside and creamy on the inside.
Slices of boiled pork belly, chả cửm (fried meat patties with young rice) and sometimes nem chua rán (fried fermented pork). On top of all that, Thai basil, tía tô (perilla bush, an aromatic herb) and kinh giới (Vietnamese balm, a common herb, in short, another aromatic herb).
The key, however, is the Mắm tôm sauce. The most important part is the bowl of purple fermented shrimp paste. The guest tastes it himself before consuming it. Calamansi juice (a small lime) is squeezed into it, which creates a foam. A little sugar and fresh chili are added. Everything is mixed vigorously with chopsticks.
WHERE TO TASTE THE BEST Bún đậu?
Bún Đậu Ngõ Trạm is one of the most famous places in the Old Quarter with a long tradition and very crispy tofu.
Address: Ngõ Trạm, Hoàn Kiếm (near Hang Da market).
Bún Đậu Nghĩa Tân is located in an area that is considered a “bún đậu paradise”, where you can find huge portions at very affordable prices.
Address: district Cầu Giấy (oblast Nghĩa Tân).
AND WHERE TO TASTE THE BEST FOOD IN HANOI?
In Hanoi, there is one simple rule: the smaller the establishment, the better the food. The best specialties are prepared in small family restaurants or right on the street. However, there are a few places that are truly legendary among locals and travelers.
But I personally think that the greatest charm is that you often discover the best food by accident. Just walk through the streets of the old quarter and see where many locals are sitting. Small plastic stools on the sidewalk, simple kitchen and full tables. That is almost always a guarantee of great food. And moments like that are among the most beautiful travel experiences.
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