Most travelers imagine Vietnam as a tropical country full of palm trees, heat and rice fields. But then you arrive in Da Lat, and suddenly you feel like you are somewhere completely different. The city of Da Lat is located in the Central Highlands of Vietnam at an altitude of about 1500 meters, and the journey here is an experience in itself. It is a city of flowers, mist and romance.
The road winds between mountains, fog-shrouded forests and coffee plantations. The temperature slowly drops and tropical Vietnam turns into a pleasant mountain climate. It is no coincidence that the French once fell in love with this place. During the colonial era, they turned it into a mountain resort where they escaped the heat of Saigon. To this day, French villas, gardens and wide boulevards still stand here, which seem almost unexpectedly European in Vietnam.
Da Lat is often called the “city of eternal spring”. The weather is pleasant here almost all year round. No tropical heat, more fresh air, morning fogs and evenings when you can easily put on a sweatshirt. The center of the city is Xuan Huong Lake, around which there is a pleasant promenade. In the morning, locals run here, older people practice tai-chi and cafes slowly open. The atmosphere here is completely different from the hectic Vietnamese metropolises. Less chaos, less honking and more peace. Da Lat is also known as the city of flowers. The surrounding climate is ideal for growing flowers, vegetables and fruit. Therefore, you can find things in shops and markets that you would not expect in tropical Vietnam, such as strawberries or artichokes.
Coffee is as much a passion for Vietnamese people as it is for Italians. And here in Da Lat, it’s doubly so. It’s drunk all the time and everywhere. Because of the relentless heat, the iced version wins, ideally combined with sweet condensed milk.
At the farm, when the lady asked us if we wanted coffee, she meant filtered. You might know it here under the Trung Nguyen brand. It’s a real kicker. It has a lot of caffeine in it.
COFFEE PLANTATIONS
The area around Da Lat is truly a coffee paradise. One of the most interesting experiences around Da Lat is visiting a coffee plantation. Vietnam is the second largest coffee producer in the world, and the Central Highlands region is one of the most important regions. If you want to visit coffee plantations or farms right at the source, here are the most popular tips from travelers and bloggers:
Coffee farms and plantations that I would recommend you visit:
K’Ho Coffee: This small family farm belongs to the K’Ho ethnic minority and is ideal for those looking for an authentic experience without much commercial pressure. They offer an insight into the manual processing of coffee and a roasting course.
Twin Beans Farm: A more modern organic farm specializing in Arabica coffee. Here you can experience the entire process “from bean to cup” and take part in a roasting and tasting workshop.
Me Linh Coffee Garden: This is the most famous and most touristic location in the area. It offers stunning panoramic views of the plantations and lake, but tends to be very touristy.
Destiny Coffee: A smaller, independent farm run by Mr. Bean, who is known for his passion for coffee and personal approach to tours.
VISIT TO SON PACAMARA COFFEE PLANTATION
I visited the Son Pacamara farm, which was established in 2005. It was founded by Mr. Son without any experience in farming. Until the summer of 2010, the farm was visited by foreign coffee specialists who were surprised by the quality of the local coffee. Since then, they have been encouraging him, helping him learn and improving the quality of his coffee. After three years of constant learning and experimentation, he managed to grow his own coffee, which according to the SCAA (Specialty Coffee Association of America) achieved a score of over 80 on a scale of 100. He decided to establish Sơn Pacamara, where he is dedicated to growing specialty coffee. You would expect robusta on the plantation, but he grows arabica here.
When you arrive at the plantation, the first thing that surprises you is the smell. There is a delicate aroma of coffee, earth and tropical plants in the air.
When processing coffee, fermentation is a key part of optimizing quality. At Sơn Pacamara, after much experimentation, they apply a full washing process to their coffee. This method creates a highly acidic environment, which is key to creating a clean cup of coffee with complex and subtle layers of flavors.
Small green fruits hang from the branches, which are actually coffee cherries. If you’re lucky, you’ll see red ones. Inside each one are two seeds. And it’s these that turn into coffee beans when dried and roasted.
What can you expect from a visit to such a farm? I walked through a small coffee farm full of greenery. I breathed in the fresh air and saw how coffee is grown and harvested. I tasted different types of the best Vietnamese specialty Arabica coffee and learned how the flavors change with different processing methods. They will explain the entire process from picking the berries, drying in the sun, removing the skin to roasting. And if you are lucky, you can also see the traditional drying of coffee on large concrete surfaces, where the beans are turned regularly. Unfortunately, I was not there during the harvest season, so I unfortunately did not see it.
You will also get to know the working tools here. Local farmers do not have money for modern technology and apart from the roasting machine, you will not find any other tool that makes the work easier. Everything is done by hand.
COFFEE ROASTING
The coffee roasting is not done directly on the farm, but in their café. So if you want to experience this process, I recommend you visit their café.
COFFEE PLANT PEDIGREE
Before we started tasting the coffees, our guide explained the basic types of coffee on the coffee tree family tree. I have attached a small picture that explains it well. At the roots of the tree you can see the main botanical species, such as Arabica (the most popular for its taste) and Robusta (more resistant, with more caffeine). The branches of the trees show how the original wild coffee trees from Ethiopia developed into the two most famous lines, Typica and Bourbon. Most of the premium coffee we drink today comes from these two branches.
The tree’s colorful leaves represent specific varieties (e.g., Geisha, Caturra, Pacamara, or Catimor) that arose either through natural mutation or deliberate breeding for better yields or disease resistance.
COFFEE BELT
And where are the best conditions for growing coffee? It is the area around the equator between the Tropic of Cancer and the Tropic of Capricorn. That is, plenty of rainfall, stable temperatures and high humidity.
The main growing regions include:
Central and South America: Brazil (the world’s largest producer), Colombia, Guatemala and Mexico
Africa: Ethiopia (the homeland of Arabica coffee), Kenya and Uganda
Asia and Oceania: Vietnam, which you just mentioned, and Indonesia or India
Note that Vietnam is clearly marked on the map in the Asian part of the belt. It is precisely thanks to its location and mountainous terrain, especially around Da Lat, that it is the second largest exporter of coffee in the world after Brazil.
COFFEE SCORING SCHEME
Before we started tasting the coffee we were looking forward to, our guide taught us how to distinguish between premium coffee and regular commercial coffee. It is a tool that professionals use to objectively assess the quality of coffee beans.
They classify coffee according to several key criteria, each with its own point scale (5-10). So what do they rate?
Aroma: The aroma of the dry ground coffee and the wet crust after pouring is rated. It can range from “basic” (5-6) to “complex” (9-10).
Acidity: It is not about bitterness, but about the desired freshness (e.g. fruity).
Flavor: The overall taste impression.
Body: The feeling the coffee has in the mouth (from “thin” – watery, to “strong” – full).
Aftertaste: How long and how pleasantly the taste lingers in the mouth.
Balance: How well all the above ingredients work together.
COFFEE WHEEL OF TASTE
The Coffee Taster’s Flavor Wheel is essentially a “dictionary” for every coffee lover and professional taster. Created by the Specialty Coffee Association (SCA), this diagram is designed to help you accurately name what you smell in your coffee.
How do you read it?
Center (Basic Flavors): You start in the middle with the most general categories (e.g., fruity, sweet, nutty/chocolatey, floral).
Outer Circles (Details): As you move toward the edge, the flavors become more specific. If you smell “fruity,” you next determine if it’s “berry,” and at the very edge, you work your way up to “blackberry” or “blueberry.”
Flaws: You’ll also find less pleasant notes like rubber, tobacco, or even paper, which help tasters spot mistakes in growing or processing.
If you already know how to score coffee and add this round to it, you’ll realize why Da Lat’s specialty coffee is so prized. Thanks to these tools, the baristas there are able to fine-tune the flavor to perfection.
LEGENDARY COFFEE TASTING
After the tour of the plantation comes the best part, the coffee tasting. Vietnamese coffee cupping is a fascinating experience that combines the traditional coffee culture of Vietnam with a modern tasting standard. While you normally enjoy coffee in a Vietnamese cafe through a phin filter with sweetened condensed milk, cupping allows you to discover the true character of the beans without any additives.
Why is cupping different in a Vietnamese cafe? The main difference is the dominance of Robusta. Vietnam is the second largest producer in the world and, unlike the mild Arabica, Robusta offers a specific flavor profile. Expect earthy tones, pronounced bitterness, notes of dark chocolate, nuts and the occasional tobacco undertone. You can tell this best visually. The brew tends to be darker and thicker with very low acidity, i.e. sourness.
HOW CUPPING WORKS STEP BY STEP
If you have ever been cupped in a coffee shop, the procedure is standardized.
DRY SMELL
First, you evaluate the aroma of freshly ground coffee in the cups. Vietnamese coffee tends to have an intense aroma, reminiscent of roasted hazelnuts.
96 DEGREES STEAMING
The coffee is poured with hot water and left to steep for 4 minutes. A “crust” forms on the surface.
BREAKING THE CRUST
With a spoon, break the top layer and assess the wet aroma. This is where the sweeter chocolate notes often come through.
TASTING THE SIP
You scoop the coffee with a special spoon and sip it loudly so that it splashes all over your palate. This allows you to fully perceive the body and aftertaste. You are actually looking for balance, or the balance between the bitterness and the natural sweetness of the bean, which comes from the correct roasting. Modern cafes focus on quality beans, which breaks the myth of Robusta as an inferior coffee for instant blends.
COFFEE QUALITY SCORING TABLE
A coffee quality scoring table that follows on from the previous cupping scheme. It shows what a specific score means for the final quality of the bean. The table is divided into categories according to the number of points:
95–100 (Exceptional): Absolutely flawless, sweet and unique coffee that is practically unbeatable.
90–95 (Excellent): A clean, sweet coffee with many exceptional qualities.
85.00 – 89.99 points (Excellent): Indicates a coffee with an exceptional character, complex taste and pronounced acidity or aroma. Such coffee often comes from specific microlots and represents the top of world production.
80.00 – 84.99 points (Very Good): This is a high-quality coffee with a clean taste profile that is significantly better than regular commodity coffee from supermarkets.
Below 80 (Commercial Coffee): This coffee no longer meets the standards for fine coffee. The lower the score, the more negative elements (unpleasant taste, defects) you will find in the cup.
Below 65: Marked as “undrinkable”.
It is thanks to this strict rating that coffee from farms around Da Lat makes it to the best coffee shops in the world. Farmers try to get their processes (sorting, drying, roasting) just above the 80 point mark.
MY TIP:
If you want to see the red fruit harvest process, the best time to visit is from November to January.
A CRAZY HOUSE THAT LOOKS LIKE IT’S FROM A DREAM
One of the most interesting places in the city is undoubtedly Crazy House. Its official name is Hang Nga Guesthouse, but the nickname “Crazy House” describes it much better. At first glance, it resembles a surrealist sculpture more than a building. No straight walls, no classic stairs. Everything twists, turns and resembles natural shapes such as trees, caves or giant roots.
The corridors are narrow and winding, the stairs wind around the walls and sometimes you feel like you’ve found yourself in a fairy tale or a Salvador Dali painting. The best part is that the house is not just a tourist attraction. You can actually sleep here. Some rooms are themed, for example tiger or kangaroo.
WHO BUILT IT? VISIONARY Đặng Việt Nga
The Crazy House was built and designed by the Vietnamese architect and visionary Đặng Việt Nga. After years of disputes, she managed to gain the support of the central government in Hanoi, which finally recognized her work as valuable. This allowed her to continue expanding the complex without further restrictions. She was the daughter of Trường Chinh, who was the second president of Vietnam and successor to Ho Chi Minh. It was thanks to him that she was able to study architecture in Moscow, where she also received a doctorate. Paradoxically, while her father was a representative of a strict political system, she perceived her work as a path to absolute freedom and independence in art. With her work, she wanted to show that even within the system, one can create with boundless imagination.
She lived in the Soviet Union for a total of 14 years, which influenced her professional outlook. She loved Antoni Gaudí and Salvador Dali. She rejected classic rectangular shapes and tried to return to nature through curves and surrealist elements in her designs. Her life project was this house, which she began working on in 1990. She financed the construction from her own resources and initially had to face distrust from the authorities and financial problems before the house became a globally recognized tourist attraction.
The People’s Committee of Da Lat City opposed the construction for many years. Officials criticized the “haphazard” nature of the house, its lack of formal aesthetics, and expressed concerns about structural integrity and safety. The architect’s vision put her in debt. Banks refused to lend to her because they did not consider her project commercially viable. To pay off her debts and continue her work, she decided in 1990 to open the house to the public as a guesthouse and tourist attraction. After years of dispute, she managed to gain the support of the central government in Hanoi, which finally recognized her work as valuable. This allowed her to continue expanding the complex without further restrictions.
ACCOMMODATION IN A MAD HOUSE
Staying in a Mad House is a unique experience that combines staying in a work of art with an adventurous atmosphere. However, Vietnam also offers other architectural curiosities.
A stay here is described as entering a fairy-tale world. Each of the ten rooms is unique and named after an animal or plant, which determines its style and symbolism. You can find themed rooms, such as the Eagle Room (representing America), the Tiger Room (representing China), or the Ant, Kangaroo, and Termite Rooms. The rooms lack right angles and the furniture is carved directly into the walls. Despite their bizarre appearance, guests rate them as surprisingly comfortable and clean. During the day, the house is open to tourists, but the accommodation areas are separated to ensure guests have peace and quiet. Free Wi-Fi is available and bathrooms feature mosaic floors and bathtubs.
WATERFALLS AROUND DA LAT
The surroundings of Da Lat are full of beautiful nature and waterfalls. If you have time, it is definitely worth going outside the city.One of the most visited is Datanla Waterfall. There is a path through the forest to the waterfall, but for the more adventurous there is also a mountain bobsleigh that goes down through the jungle to the cascades of water. Another famous waterfall is Pongour Waterfall. This one is much wider and looks very majestic. The water flows down several stone terraces and creates a beautiful scenery. It is a place where you like to stop for a while and just listen to the sound of the water.
NIGHT MARKET
In the evening, life in Da Lat shifts to the Da Lat Night Market. The market is filled with stalls selling food, clothes and souvenirs. The air smells of grilled meat, sweet pancakes and pho soup.
One of the local specialties is banh trang nuong, sometimes called Vietnamese pizza. It’s rice paper grilled with egg, herbs, meat, and chili sauce. It’s simple, cheap, and incredibly good.
Da Lat is a city full of contrasts. French architecture in the middle of Vietnam. There is a much cooler mountain climate here and it was also in a tropical country. And to top it all off, coffee plantations, waterfalls and nature that gives you the feeling that you are far from the hustle and bustle of big cities. Maybe that is why many travelers fall in love with Da Lat. It is not just another stop on the map of Vietnam. It is a place where you can slow down, breathe in the mountain air and enjoy life for a while. Of course, ideally with a cup of strong Vietnamese coffee in your hand.
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