CZECH ST. JAMES WAY THE VŠERUBY WAY PART 2

CZECH ST. JAMES WAY THE VŠERUBY WAY PART 2

Once you get past your first 30 kilometers, you’ll feel like you can do it. And that’s a good thing! And trust me, you can do it!


My tip

MY ADVICE:

Don’t plan! It doesn’t matter how many kilometers you walk a day! It’s possible that your own body will betray you, you’ll get blisters, or you’ll discover a beautiful place that you’ll really like and decide to stay there for a while.


ROUTE:📍PŘÍBRAM -📍VYSOKÁ U PŘÍBRAMĚ -📍NESVAČILY -📍ROŽMITÁL POD TŘEMŠÍNEM -📍KASEJOVICE – 📍NEPOMUK -📍PLÁNICE (Length: 20,1 km)


Spending most of your time in nature is very energizing. I find that walking in nature promotes creativity and mindfulness, you learn something about yourself and you relax. Scientists have even found that walking in the forest reduces stress, lowers blood pressure, improves attention, and so on. In Japan, doctors even prescribe forest baths as medicine today.

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Forest therapy, I simply love the green! Walking through the moss is so divine!

VYSOKÁ NEAR PŘÍBRAM – MONUMENT TO ANTONÍN DVOŘÁK


The road through the forested countryside near the Brdy Mountains will take you to the small village of Vysoká u Příbram. Keep in mind that there is nowhere to eat properly. So keep that in mind and take some lunch with you on the way. And especially water! In a beautiful, extensive park there is a neo-Renaissance chateau, where the Antonín Dvořák Monument is located, dedicated to this genius of Czech music. This chateau complex was built by Dvořák’s brother-in-law, Count Václav Kounic. Here you will find an exhibition dedicated to the life, work and stay of Antonín Dvořák in Vysoká. The composer enthusiastically planted trees, gardened, raised pigeons and, of course, composed.

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He wrote in letters to his friends that he felt very happy here. And now I understand why. It is truly beautiful here.
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You can reach the chateau through this alley. It is divinely peaceful.
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Of course, there is also a monument.
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The forest here is like something out of a fairy tale.

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RUSALÇA’S POND


Near the chateau (approximately 400 meters) is Rusalka’s Lake. It is a classic peat lake that looks very mysterious, I would say fairy-tale. However, the name “Rusalka” lake came about only after Dvořák’s death – at a time when the opera Rusalka was already a famous opera.

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The Mermaid’s Lake – the plot of the work could easily take place here, because there are deep forests around the lake.
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Moon in the deep sky, your light sees far, you wander the wide world, you look into people’s dwellings. Moon, stop for a moment, tell me, where is my beloved? Do you remember? I do. 🙂
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Don’t forget to raise your head, because it’s really beautiful.
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The forest here is endless.
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There is a place near Rusalka Lake where you can relax and maybe even exercise.
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And it looks like a small piece on the map :-)))))

NESVAČILY


Along the way you will come across various names of towns and villages. But I probably enjoy Nesvačyly the most.

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ROŽMITÁL POD TŘEMŠÍNEM


In the foothills of the Brdy Mountains lies the town of Rožmitál pod Třemšínem. The main livelihood here was pastoralism, grain cultivation, horse breeding, mining of poor iron ore, work in the forest and in ironworks. It was here that Jakub Jan Ryba lived and worked.

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J.J. Ryba worked in this former school

However, he did not have it easy here. He worked as a teacher, spoke three languages and composed music. He made sure that children went to school often, diligently and happily. He introduced many innovations at school. However, because of this, he had disputes with the parents of his pupils. He wrote his texts in Czech, so that even the common people could understand it. Because of all this, he suffered from depression, exhaustion and also suffered from hemorrhoids. Therefore, he decided to end his life by committing suicide by cutting his carotid arteries with a razor. As a suicide, he could not be buried in the cemetery, so his final resting place was the plague cemetery, northwest of Starý Rožmitál. Only later, at the instigation of his son, were his remains transferred to the cemetery at the Church of the Exaltation of the Holy Cross. His grave is one of the most visited graves here in the cemetery.

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You don’t have to worry that you won’t find J.J. Ryba’s grave.

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CASTLE


The most valuable monument of the city could easily be the castle, but it is in a dilapidated state.

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Castle in Rožmitál pod Třemšínem
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Chapel at the castle

CHURCH OF SAINT JOHN OF NEPOMUCK


In the city center there are Baroque houses and you will also find the Church of St. John of Nepomuk from the 13th century. In the corridor to the choir of this branch church, a cast iron plate with one of Ryba’s mottos has been preserved: “To be better, observe your actions daily and examine them.”

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Some streets in Rožmitál pod Třemšínem are very romantic

CHURCH OF THE EXALTATION OF THE HOLY CROSS


The church is built in the shape of a cross. The greatest jewel of the church is the historic organ, sometimes also called Rybovy. He played it and it was here that he first introduced the famous Czech Christmas Mass. The composer’s grave is located in the nearby cemetery.

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Beautiful stairs lead to the church
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Czech Christmas Mass “Hey Master” – you can find this record at the church

CLOTHING MUSEUM


No, don’t worry! This is not a museum of crazy people, but on the contrary, it is a museum dedicated to the craft of tinkering. Although tinkering has long ceased to exist, it would be a great shame if it fell into oblivion.

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The craft of smithing no longer exists, but it would be a shame if it were forgotten.

🚸ROUTE: ROŽMITÁL POD TŘEMŠÍNEM AND KASEJOVICE (Long: 24 km)


From the picturesque Rožmitál, you can follow the red trail uphill to Třemšín. Třemšín is the highest peak in the southern Brdy Mountains.

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Sometimes the road will seem endless. But if you find a path without obstacles, it certainly leads nowhere. 🙂
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I really wonder who came up with the name of this place?! Don’t you know?!
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It’s the journey that brings us happiness, not the destination. I guess there’s something to that.
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And how many cows did we meet along the way…..
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Tremsin Nature Park

TŘEMŠÍN SHED


The journey to Třemšín seemed endless. I kept telling myself: “You can do it! You’ll see, the girl will be worth it!” And it was worth it. 🙂

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A Chinese proverb says: Traveling the world ten thousand miles is better than reading ten thousand scrolls.
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The Třemšín hut is really a hut 🙂
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Tremsinska hut
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Remember, traveling is not about money, it’s about courage. But invest in good shoes.

CHAPEL ON TŘEMŠÍNA


The Chapel of the Transfiguration of the Lord Christ in Třemšín supposedly stands above a filled-in well. It was built by the forester of Rožmitál at the time.

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Třemšín chapel – signs
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The chapel is really small.
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The view of the surrounding countryside was definitely worth it.
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Třemšín Nature Park is really very nice. And the moss everywhere.
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I was really surprised that I didn’t have any blisters. I’m sure it was thanks to the good shoes.
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In the village of Starý Smolinec you can get such a beautiful stamp.

From the forest of the Třemšín Nature Park, a path leads pilgrims to the resort village of Starý Smolivec.

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I have to admit that on any route of the Way of St. James, when I saw a booth with a stamp, it always made me very happy.
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The remaining part of the stage leads along rolling fields and passes several ponds, for example the largest of them is Metelský, whose dam unusually leads above the village of Metly.

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The road also leads through the tiny village of Újezd u Kasejovice.

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A small church in the village of Újezd near Kasejovic.

KASEJOVICE


Kasejovice is known primarily for the fact that gold was mined here for several centuries. And if you have the time and the mood, take a trip to Kasojovický gold. There is an educational trail that runs through the town.

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Coat of arms of the town of Kasejovici

CHURCH OF ST. JAMES


However, your goal in the city will not be gold, but the Kasejovicky Church, which is dedicated to St. James. And it is here that you will put another stamp in your pilgrimage book.

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Church of St. James in Kasejovice

📍NATURAL TRAIL – JOURNEY TO KASEJOVCE GOLD


This project was created with the support of the Pilsen Region and the city of Kasejovice. The route is approximately 6 km long and will take you through the town from the railway station to the now defunct St. James mine. Anyone who wants to learn something about the town’s history, as if transported back in time to times long gone by, when stagecoaches drove along the imperial road, shoemakers sat on the verpánku and neighbors chatted in the evenings in one of the many local inns, can set off to explore at fifteen educational stops.

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Stop No. 10 – Journey to Kasejovický Gold, you do not start right in front of the church.

ROUTE: KASEJOVICE – NEPOMUK (Long: 16 km)


From Kasejovice you can take a leisurely walk to the birthplace of St. John of Nepomuk. Along the way you will come across many benches, so you can relax in peace and quiet.

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ROUTE: NEPOMUK – PLÁNICE (Long: 17 km)


The town of Nepomuk is truly beautifully picturesque and peaceful. History breathes on you at every step. The Nepomuk nature trail runs through the town, which will take you through important historical houses. There are many legends about the name of the town, and I personally probably like the interpretation that the name of the town is derived from “pomukávání” (talking), which the monks used to talk to each other while working, during which they were not allowed to talk unnecessarily according to their rule. 🙂

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City of Nepomuk

In the town you will find the Piarist College and the birthplace of the academic painter Augustin Němec, the author of the curtain in the J. K. Tyl Theatre in Pilsen. He also captured his native region in many of his paintings. The house houses a permanent exhibition.

The town of Nepomuk is associated with the name of the famous composer Jakub Jan Ryba. His father worked as a teacher in Nepomuk, so he also spent part of his youth here and taught here for a short time.

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Tourist map of the city of Nepomuk

CHURCH OF SAINT JOHN OF NEPOMUCK


This church is special because, according to legend, the birthplace of John of Nepomuk used to stand here. You will also find a nice exhibition dedicated to this saint. St. John of Nepomuk was an important historical figure and a spiritual legacy was created around him, which soon spread throughout the world. And believe me, the atmosphere of this place will quickly get you.

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Outside the church you will learn many interesting facts about this saint. Here I was thinking that I don’t understand why no film has been made about him. After all, his life was so interesting. St. John of Nepomuk was the confessor of the Czech queen. Do you know which one?

SAINT JOHANNES MUSEUM


This museum, located on the ground floor of the Nepomuk Archdeaconry, is also dedicated to St. John of Nepomuk. It was founded by Archdeacon P. Jan Strnad. The museum was intended not only to encourage and delight pilgrims and devotees of St. John, but also to provide instruction for all who wish to continue their studies of the history of St. John. It was open until 1950, when it was closed by the communist regime.

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John of Pomuk, as the confessor of the Czech queen, was tortured and thrown from the Charles Bridge into the Vltava River because he refused to reveal the secret of confession to the king.

In the St. John’s Museum you can find a replica of the skull, lower jaw, skeleton, shoulder blades and most importantly his tongue.

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The true face of St. John of Nepomuk – was revealed on the occasion of the 290th anniversary of the saint’s canonization.

CHURCH OF SAINT JAMES THE GREAT


This little church is very nice and can be visited upon request during the opening hours of the St. John’s Museum. I was lucky enough to be there alone and had a private tour. A very kind lady showed me around and it was a very pleasant meeting.

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Church of St. James the Greater in Nepomuk

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Arch
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Presbytery

The church houses an exhibition dedicated to the communist Action K and Action Ř. You will learn about the life of priests and nuns in prisons and labor camps. The communist regime primarily promised them “re-education”.

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In the exhibition you will learn not only about the very eventful life of Anna Magdaléna Schwarzová, but also about other nuns and priests.

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Trip to the village of Klášter


When you are in Nepomuk, I advise you to stay here for one more day and take a trip to the village of Klášter. From A. Němejce Square, you can take the nature trail around Zelená Hora.


ZELENOHORSKÁ POST


On the way you will come across the Zelenohorská post office building, which was rebuilt according to the plan of K.I. Dientzenhofer. Today it houses a veterans’ museum.

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Zelenohorská pošta v Nepomuku

The road to Zelená Hora leads past the statue of St. John of Nepomuk to the crossroads, where there is an inn and a forge on Vyskočilka from the second half of the 16th century. The name of the inn is derived from the St. Adalbert legend, according to which two robbers jumped out of the woods on St. Adalbert. In the old days, the bailiffs of the Zelená Hora estate, aldermen and musketeers met here.

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Statue of St. John of Nepomuk
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Statue of Our Lady of Sorrows in Nepomuk
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The path leads through the forest.

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ZELENA HORA CASTLE


The Zelená Hora Castle is a dominant feature of Nepomuk at an altitude of 536 m above sea level. The castle became more widely known thanks to Miloslav Švandrlík’s novel “The Black Barons”, based on which a film of the same name was made, set in the events of the first half of the 1950s at the castle. The castle was owned by the state for 63 long years, during which it essentially just fell into disrepair. In addition, the castle was used by French filmmakers to film the film “Kateřina Kurážná” or the series “John Sinclair”. The castle is now owned by the municipality and is currently undergoing gradual reconstruction as part of the Ministry of Culture’s “Architectural Heritage Preservation” program.

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Major Terazka, played by Pavel Landovský: “And what do you imagine the word absurd to mean?”

From here, you will descend the forested slope of Zelená hora along the nature trail to the Monastery.

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KLÁŠTER U NEPOMUKU


Near Nepomuk (about 2 km) is the village of Klášter, which is one of the oldest settlements in the Nepomuk region. A Cistercian monastery was founded here in the 12th century by monks from Erbrach.

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It was not just any monastery, however, but one of the largest and richest monasteries in Bohemia. Its remains, which survived the burning of the Hussites in the 15th century, form one of the dominant features of the village. There are a number of massive walls with the remains of Gothic arcades and windows.

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Today it looks like a kind of gate, but in the past it was either an inn, or perhaps even a king’s palace.

In addition to the remains of the monastery itself, you will also find the chapel (sometimes referred to as a church) of St. Margaret. The chapel boasts a portal that is considered one of the first Gothic portals in Bohemia.

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Chapel of St. Margaret

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The monastery pond, over whose dam the road to Nepomuk leads, is mainly used by fishermen for breeding purposes and fishing, and partly also for swimming.

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At the dam of the Monastery Pond, you will turn off the blue road and continue upstream of the Muchovka River back to Nepomuk.

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Red Bridge

On the way, you will come across the Baroque Red Bridge. According to legend, a bloody battle took place here during the Hussite period.

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Chapel of St. Adalbert

Towards the city, you will also come across the chapel of St. Adalbert from 1682 with a human footprint in the stone.


🚸ROUTE: FROM NEPOMUKU TO PLÁNICE (Long:17 km)


From Nepomuk you will head towards the town of Plánice. And believe me, this section of the route is exactly what you will need. It is an easy stage. You will find yourself quite far from civilization, no big hills and nicely in the shade of the forest. The route leads through the Plánice Highlands to Plánice.

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The journey wasn’t always ideal. Of course we got wet, but that didn’t stop us from smiling.
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The road also leads through the village of Kozlovice.
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And maybe you’ll walk a bit through the mud. 🙂
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Old and young 🙂
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You can also catch a stamp in the village of Kvasetice
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Such a pretty flower

PLÁNICE


Most of you will probably associate Plánice with the inventor František Křižík, who was born here. His birthplace is now a museum dedicated to the life and work of the inventor. Unfortunately, it was closed when we were there.

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Poppy field in front of Plánice
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Plánice, birthplace of inventor František Křižík
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The František Křižík Museum is located in Plánice.
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If you want to visit the museum, you better find out if it will be open.
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Plánice
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Church of St. Blaise in Plánice
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Here you can also find another stamp for your collection.

It’s a nice feeling when you realize that you’ve completed most of the route and the destination is already in sight.


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The next route will take you from Plánice to Všeruby, to the border of the Czech Republic with Germany.


CONTINUATION


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