There are many reasons to visit Malaysia. There are beaches, jungles, incredible food. A mix of cultures. Big, shiny cities and colonial-era towns. And of course, there’s street art.
GRAFFITI? IN MALAYSIA?
The very idea that graffiti could be one of Malaysia’s big attractions would have been laughable 20 years ago. Malaysia has some of the strictest laws in Southeast Asia, and they enforce them. Back then, graffiti wasn’t considered art, it was vandalism, and vandals faced stiff penalties. But in the age of Instagram, graffiti (renamed “street art”) has become a major tourist attraction – and that’s not lost on the Malaysian government.
In December 2010, Kuala Lumpur City Hall launched the KUL Sign Festival, which allowed graffiti artists to legally display their work for the first time. The National Gallery of Visual Arts funded a book celebrating the capital’s street art, Graffiti KL, which further enhanced the image of this underground art movement. Then, in 2012, Lithuanian artist Ernest Zacharevic (“Zach”) was commissioned to paint his now-famous series of murals in George Town, Penang.
Graffiti went mainstream, and artists who had previously covered up their work under the cover of darkness were suddenly celebrated for brightening up their neighborhoods. Momentum continued to grow, and today there is a small but truly vibrant graffiti scene. Street art in Malaysia is a real draw for travelers who flock to the hotspots. Several well-known artists are now able to make a living from painting commissions, and their success has inspired amateurs to pick up a brush (or spray paint) and add color to their own local areas.
RexKL
My first stop was RexKL, an arts and culture center with a great bookstore, exhibition spaces, and various cafes. It’s a unique space because it used to be a cinema. This space has been redesigned, retaining much of the original structure and interior.
KWAI CHAI HONG
(LITTLE ALLEY OF DEMONS)
Five local artists worked on the project – Khek Shin Nam, Chan Kok Sing, Chok Fook Yong, Chew Weng Yeow and Wong Leck Min. They all have different artistic styles that complement each other very well!
Yes, I admit that it is a big tourist attraction. It is exactly the kind of place that is suitable for Instagram. 🙂 But that doesn’t mean it is bad, right? 🙂 You can find beautiful murals here. The Kwai Chai Hong project includes 10 renovated shops.
Visitors are greeted at the entrance by an archway with the Mandarin characters “Kwai Chai Hong” written by a famous Chinese calligrapher. And it’s all so well done here. It’s a fusion of old Asia and modern. Visitors can use their smartphones to scan QR codes on the walls. To make the experience truly unique, the voice clips were narrated by professional voice artists who have recorded various dramas for the radio.
A red, wheelchair-accessible bridge leads into the hidden alley. It is made from reclaimed wood from a protected workshop during restoration work. The site where the arch and bridge stand was previously occupied by Ho Kow Hainan Kopitiam, a coffee shop established in 1956. It is no longer there. You will find it relocated to a nearby shop just across the street.
LOVERS
But what I like best are the very nice murals depicting the daily activities of the early Chinese settlers in the area during the 1960s. Each mural seems to show a different story. The project tries to entice all generations. Young people to experience what came before. And for the elderly, it should be a place they return to for nostalgic reasons.
PLAYING CHILDREN
Another mural is a look at how children played in the 1960s. Wasn’t it fun, just playing marbles?
LADY OF THE NIGHT
The painting depicting the “Lady of the Night” is remarkable. Prostitution was big business in Kuala Lumpur’s Chinatown in the 1960s. The painting can be found on the back of the Baijiu Bar building. That’s why there are blue tables outside for customers to use when they enjoy a beer or cocktail. Notice that he is holding a real red chiffon scarf. This is one of several murals that are interactive.Notable is the painting depicting the “lady of the night”.
CALIGRAPHERS
Among the hilarious drawings are undoubtedly those by Chinese calligraphers who helped write the settlers’ letters home. Many immigrants living in Chinatown were illiterate and sought the help of a calligrapher to write home to their loved ones in China. They sent letters to their families telling of the wealth they had earned. Calligraphers also wrote love letters that settlers sent to girlfriends and wives.
The small wooden bench allows visitors to become part of the artwork, which is fun.
The largest and most intricate mural in Kwai Chai Hong is at the end of the alley. It depicts everyday life in Chinatown. You’ll find ladies washing or children playing. Of course, the barbers cutting hair in the open belong to this atmosphere. There are even details such as wooden blinds with painted advertisements.
I really like the picture of the landlady. It’s so funny, like the famous scene from Kungfu Hustle.
Another nice painting painted by the exposed masonry is one depicting an old man playing the erhu. The erhu is a traditional Chinese stringed instrument with only two strings.
How to find Kwai Chai Hong Street in Chinatown? Remember that the best time to visit is before 10am, before the crowds start to arrive. Opening hours are daily from 9am to 6pm. It’s best to follow these geographical coordinates: 3.141525, 101.697596. If you use the MRT, it’s a 5-minute walk from Pasar Seni. But if you take the monorail, it’s a 10-minute walk after getting off at Maharajalela station.
DA BAO
There are many cafes in Chinatown that have their main entrances on Jalan Petaling, while their back doors open onto Kwai Chai Hong. Da Baos, a funky Chinese restaurant and bar with a lively and modern atmosphere, is a great experience. It specializes in bao (steamed buns with a savory filling). The bao were absolutely delicious! You have to try the pork bun, a signature recipe.
LORONG PETALING
Near Kwai Chai Hong is Lorong Petaling, where you can find two beautiful murals by artist CO2. Both depict life in Kuala Lumpur in the past. Petaling Street (Jalan Petaling) is famous for its market, but stroll towards the Chan She Shu Yuen Clan Ancestral Hall (a stunning Cantonese heritage building).
You will find more interesting alleys, shops, cafes and street art here.
RIVER OF LIFE
One of the most striking pieces of street art in Kuala Lumpur is a large mural located near Masjid Jamek. The intricate mural depicts three men in a river surrounded by lush vegetation, one of them trying to catch a fish. It could be a reflection of what the Klang River was like before it is now. Whatever it is, it is undoubtedly a beautiful addition to the city.
Kuala Lumpur is one of my favorite Asian cities. And you shouldn’t miss this experience.
If you liked my article, I would be glad for a nice comment.
I would also like to invite you to join me on Instagram a Facebook.
ARTICLES ABOUT STREET ART
