I like to go back to the past, and you already know that I like open-air museums. This time I went to the Polabian Ethnographic Museum. I enjoy suddenly finding myself in another time or world.
It kind of surprised me. It was like I was transported back to my childhood, when I used to visit my great-grandparents in their little cottages with my parents. I remembered sitting with them in a picturesque room with starched white lace bedspreads or running around in the tiny yard in front of the chickens.
It took me a while to get used to the ubiquitous mannequins, but they really give the whole museum a whole new dimension. I’ve greeted them a few times thinking they were real people. Yes, the figures are that realistic.
COTTAGE EQUIPMENT
How were the cottages furnished? In essence, the furniture had a traditional layout. In the corner by the door there was a stove and diagonally opposite it in the corner was a table, in the next corner there was a bed and next to the door was a cupboard for dishes – the so-called misník. The furniture was often made by the farmer himself, sometimes with the help of a wandering carpenter or journeyman carpenter. Soft wood was used to make the furniture – fir, spruce or linden, and from the 18th century the furniture was colorfully painted with tempera or oil paints.
In the living room we would find various chests for clothes or food. In the hallway there were benches and cupboards. I probably liked those the most.
The oven was used for cooking and baking. It was only completely heated in winter or when baking bread. It was heated from the hallway.
BEE HIVES
In addition to the beautiful cottages, the open-air museum also has many beautiful beehives. It’s a real joy to see them.
OLD SCHOOL
As a child, I was really looking forward to school, to being a real schoolboy with a briefcase and having a good teacher. Then I was really looking forward to getting out of that stupid school and living my own life. Was that the case with you too? But it doesn’t take long before you start to remember school in good ways, and eventually only in good ways, and you’d like to go back to school. And there’s such a nice reminder of your school years in this open-air museum.
We can only recall here that compulsory school attendance was enacted in our countries as early as 1774, during the reign of Maria Theresa. In this old school, I was interested in the School Rules:
1. Go to school attentively!
2. Come to school on time, clean and well-groomed!
3. Before you enter the schoolroom, wipe mud or snow off your shoes and clothes!
4. Walk slowly and quietly along the corridor and stairs!
5. When you enter the schoolroom, greet and bow to the teacher, put off your outerwear and go to the designated place!
6. Before the lesson, do not leave your place, do not make a fuss, but prepare for the lesson!
7. What you have to say to the teacher, say before the lesson!
8. Greet the teacher or guest who enters the classroom by standing up and remain standing until you are told to sit down!
9. During the lesson, be attentive and avoid any interruptions!
10. Do not bring inappropriate things to school, especially sweets!
11. Do your physical needs before entering the school, but do not soil the toilet!
12. Do not eat during the lesson!
13. Only raise your hand to answer!
14. Answer or read aloud, standing straight when answering!
15. When going to the blackboard or table, bow to the teacher, do the same when leaving!
16. After the lesson, put away your things without making noise!
17. Leave the school according to the established order!
18. Be harmonious and kind!
19. Do not give money, do not exchange or sell things without the permission of your parents!
20. Do not damage school equipment or the things of your classmates! You are obliged to compensate for any damage caused!
21. Do not scratch or write on the walls!
22. Do not litter in the school building!
23. Greet respected persons politely!
24. Do not mock anyone or insult anyone!
25. Do not shout, throw, or fight in public places!
26. Do not damage trees and other plants!
27. Do not torment animals, they feel like you!
28. Do not destroy birds, their nests, or eggs!
29. Do not slip on the sidewalks in winter!
30. Do not go out on the street at dusk, unless you are sent by your parents!
31. Do not visit inns, public dances, or theaters!
CENTRAL BOHEMIAN COTTAGE No. 19
The local ethnographic museum was founded by the owner of the Přerov estate, Archduke Ludvík Salvátor Toskánský, a navigator and ethnographer, around 1895. He had the cottage of the former blacksmith’s shop converted into an “Old Bohemian cottage”. He was inspired by an exhibition that was taking place in Prague at the time.
He had the cottage furnished with old furniture and objects from the surrounding area. This Strášek cottage was opened to the public in 1967, becoming one of the first ethnographic museums in our country.
Today you can find rare painted Elbe furniture, as well as a “black kitchen”, which is equipped with black dishes and old utensils. Black because the walls were stained here by soot from the stove in the living room. The living room was heated, it was warm and smelled of hot food. The living room was actually a kind of living room today. Other gems were gradually delivered here from various villages, such as an herb garden, a fruit drying room, a bell tower and a wooden well.
As part of the Christmas exhibition, the cottage is reserved for Christmas Eve with all the fortune-telling and superstitions, the “nine meals” and Christmas Eve caroling.
CHVALOVICE COTTAGE
This cottage came here from a village between Poděbrady and Nymburk and dates back to 1785. It is built using the log cabin technique from processed spruce wood. This building represents the most common type of folk dwelling in the central Polabí region. The house consists of a hall, a living room and a chamber. You will find beautiful painted furniture here.
COTTAGE FROM DRAGO
This cottage is built near the museum fence, facing the road. It came here from the small settlement of Draha. There it was part of a previously wealthy estate. When it was moved, it was discovered that it dates back to 1766.
In this cottage, traditional parades of Barborka, Lucia and the St. Nicholas procession with a gift are performed.
Christmas baking is being prepared in the kitchen, and samples of old types of Christmas cookies and recipes are on display in the bar.
GRANARY FROM VLKAVY
Do you know what a granary is? It is a granary or a building for storing grain. This granary dates back to the late 18th century from Vlkava in the Mladá Boleslav region. It is beautifully timbered with pine beams. It is three-storeyed. Grain and agricultural crops that required dryness were placed in the upper and large dry chamber, while milk and other foodstuffs were placed in the cold stone cellar. In the smaller chamber there were various containers for storing food and small agricultural tools.
DRYING HOUSE FROM BŘISTVE U ROŽĎALOVICE
This fruit drying house dates back to the 19th century in the Nymburk region. Fruit was prepared and dried here, and even jam was made. Dried plums were taken from there in large quantities by traders to Prague.
CENTRAL BOHEMIAN COTTAGE No. 19
The local ethnographic museum was founded by the owner of the Přerov estate, Archduke Ludvík Salvátor Toskánský, a navigator and ethnographer, around 1895. He had the cottage of the former blacksmith’s shop converted into an “Old Bohemian cottage”. He was inspired by an exhibition that was taking place in Prague at the time.
GRANARY FROM VINIC II.
This granary dates from the mid-19th century and has a smaller shed. The shed houses a large wine press from Kyškovice near Roudnice nad Labem. It dates back to 1712 and is one of the oldest exhibits in the museum.
SMALL WALL-BUILT CHAPEL
Small brick chapels, topped with a bell, were built in most villages in the Nymburk region from the second half of the 18th century. Their creation was connected with the issuance of the so-called Fire Patent of Maria Theresa, which from 1751 required that fires be announced by striking the bell. However, in addition to fires, the bell was also rung on other occasions – when kneeling, at a death or funeral, and even against storm clouds.
COTTAGES AT THE BACK OF THE MUSEUM
The cottages are originally from Střihov (1861), Vinice (1860), Kovanice (1800) and Pojedi (around 1840). They form a row around the road, giving the impression of a country street.
The cottages in the lower part of the open-air museum show how our ancestors spent the Christmas holidays during the last century, both on the farm and in the cottage.
COTTAGE FROM STRIHOV
This large house was built around 1770 and is a typical example of folk architecture from the Králové Městec region.
In the Nymburk region, Christmas was celebrated as the biggest holiday of the calendar year, similar to other regions. Most of the old customs and traditions fell into disuse after World War I. Even in wealthy families in the Elbe region, people generally saved money and lived modestly.
FOLK CHRISTMAS IN POLABÍ
The exhibition “Folk Christmas in the Polabí Region” was currently running in the open-air museum, which made the experience of the entire village even more intense. In my article, I would like to introduce you not only to this beautiful museum, but also to the ancient customs and traditions from the time of Advent and in the period from Christmas to Epiphany.
FROM OUR GRANDMOTHERS’ KITCHEN
In the open-air museum, you will find many recipes displayed on the walls, Christmas baking is being prepared in the kitchen, samples of old types of sweets and various old crafts.
CHRISTMAS EVE – NINE MEALS
According to old tradition, the Christmas Eve table was supposed to feature “nine dishes“, mostly those that symbolized fertility and abundance – groats and legumes, poppy seeds, mushrooms, and garlic and honey for health. Then there was bread and Christmas cake. The first course was lentil or pea soup, in poor families they had sour or mushroom soup. Fried fish, “black kuba” made from torn groats, and sweet millet porridge with dried plums were popular.
In addition to “carp in black“, “carp in jelly “in blue” was prepared as one of the courses on the estates. After Christmas Eve dinner, the first thing on the table was a bowl of fruit, dried plums, cranberries and nuts, strudel, peciválky or gingerbread. Dinner was usually washed down with beer. Punch or grog was a popular drink. Women preferred mulled rosehip wine with cinnamon and cloves.
CHRISTMAS EVE DIVINATIONS AND PRACTICES
As soon as the Christmas Eve dinner was over, all the crumbs were carefully swept up, carried out and buried under the fruit trees for a better harvest of fruit. Fish bones belonged to the fire so that it would not harm. Nut shells were supposed to ensure enough drinking water throughout the year. Burning candles in nut shells were placed in a bowl of water and a shoe was also thrown. In the past, a lot was also put into dreams, which were much more effective on this night.
It is known that the Christmas tree began to spread in our countries only during the first half of the 19th century. In the countryside, the Christmas tree appeared only after World War I in wealthier families who had adopted this custom from the urban environment. In peasant families, it was still considered a luxury for a long time. And what about the Christmas gift? In the countryside, on Christmas Eve, farmers gave their families a loaf of bread, a Christmas tree, fruit, as well as cloth for clothes and money. And what about the gifts under the tree? Previously, this gift was rather symbolic – apples, nuts, a small toy for joy and only exceptionally some clothes. In wealthier families, children received silver or gold coins, which were saved for their future dowry.
NATIVITY SCENE EXBITION
Printed nativity scenes became more popular than carved nativity scenes from the first third of the 19th century. They came to us mainly from Magdeburg or Neuruppin in Germany. Soon after, they began to be printed in Prague in the well-known printing houses of Morak, Bohmann and Hoffmann. From the end of the 19th century, they could also be bought relatively cheaply from stationers in the countryside. They were mostly folding nativity scenes, which were placed under the Christmas tree.
CHRISTMAS TOURS
HOW TO GET THERE
The open-air museum is located in the ancient village of Přerov nad Labem, about 25 km east of Prague. What may surprise you at first, and I think it is also one of the peculiarities of this museum, is that it is located right in the middle of a wealthy Polabí village near a romantic Renaissance castle with a moat. Unfortunately, it is closed to the public, but you can observe the letter-shaped sgraffito from the outside. The entire area is largely fenced with a picket fence.
YOU CAN BUY TICKETS ONLINE –HERE
I am very glad that the wonderful tour of the Polabský Museum brought back memories of my childhood. I think I will be happy to come back here. For me, it is a place where there is no rush and where the past breathes on you. So not only is there no rush here, but there is no rush from here either. If you ever stop here, you will agree with me.
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