When you say Thailand, most people think of beaches, coconuts, massages, and mango sticky rice. But Thailand also has another side, one that is much quieter. One that waits for you quietly between crumbling walls and tree roots. This is Ayutthaya. A city that was once one of the richest and most powerful places in the world. And today? Today, it is a place where people learn to slow down. And sometimes even think about how fleeting the things we consider “forever” really are.
THE KINGDOM THAT RULED THE WORLD
Ayutthaya was founded in 1350 and for more than four centuries was one of the richest trading centers in the world. Trade was conducted here with Europeans, Chinese, Indians, and Arabs. French and Portuguese merchants described the city as larger and richer than some European capitals. Then came the year 1767. The Burmese army destroyed the city. The temples burned down, the palaces fell into ruin, and the kingdom came to an end. Today, only ruins remain. But what ruins they are.
AYUTTHAYA APPLICATION
I would like to recommend the application to you Retouch Ayutthaya. It’s easy to use. You download it to your phone, pay 69 THB for a day’s access, and then you can use it as a guide. It works by pointing your camera at a part of the temple and it will show you what it looked like in its heyday. Another app is Ayutthaya SmartGuide, which is a free guide.
WAT YAI CHAI MONGKHON
Wat Yai Chai Mongkhon is one of the most important and photogenic temples in Ayutthaya. Translated, it means “Great Monastery of Auspicious Victory.” If you’re looking for a temple that will take your breath away with its size and spiritual atmosphere, this is it. Unlike many other ruins, this site is still an active monastery with well-kept gardens. Monks still live and study here today.
The temple was founded in 1357 by King U-Thong, originally under the name Wat Pa Kaew. It served as the seat of the Forest Sect of Buddhism, whose monks had returned from their studies in Sri Lanka. However, it did not acquire its present form and name until the late 16th century.
LARGE SITTING BUDDHA STATUE
A huge Buddha statue at the entrance to the temple, often draped in a bright orange robe, is where locals go to pray.
BIG PAGODA
A dominant feature visible from afar, built by King Naresuan the Great to celebrate his victory over the Burmese in 1592. You can climb the stairs to the terrace, from where there is a great view of the entire area.
WISHING WELL
Inside the main pagoda, you will find a deep shaft. According to legend, throwing a coin in the middle will bring you a wish. So when you throw a coin, throw the coin exactly in the middle. It will bring you not only a wish but also spiritual purification.
ENDLESS ROWS OF SITTING BUDDHAS
Hundreds of saffron-robed Buddha statues surround the main pagoda, making it a symbol of the temple and an ideal spot for photos.
RECLINING BUDDHA
At the entrance, you will be greeted by a 7-meter-long statue of the Reclining Buddha. Locals believe that gluing gold leaf to its feet will bring health and happiness.
WHY COME HERE?
This temple offers a unique combination of majestic architecture and peaceful energy. It is one of the few places where you can see real religious life alongside historical ruins. Due to its location off the main island, it tends to be less crowded than the central monuments.
INFORMATION BOARD WITH BLESSING
There are blue information boards with inscriptions in Thai and English throughout the grounds, listing some of the 38 blessings (in Thai, Mangala Sutta, which are Buddhist principles for a happy and virtuous life. The text on the board quotes selected rules from the Mangala Sutta.
Signs are placed in the gardens and along the paths to remind visitors of the ethical and spiritual values of Buddhism. In addition to these “wisdoms”, this temple is also known for its giant stupa (chedi) and a large statue of a reclining Buddha.
PRACTICAL TIPS FOR YOUR VISIT
Opening hours: Daily from 8:00 to 17:00 (some sources say until 18:00).
Entrance fee: For foreigners it is a symbolic 20 THB.
MAP:
Transportation: The temple is located southeast of the main historical island, a short distance from the train station. It is best to use the local Tuk-Tuk or rent a bike.
Clothing: As this is a sacred site, it is necessary to have your shoulders and knees covered.
WAT MAHATHAT: BUDDHA IN THE ARMS OF A TREE
The temple was built in 1374 by King Borommaracha I. This temple was the spiritual center of the entire kingdom and the seat of the supreme patriarch. During excavations in 1956, a secret hiding place was discovered in the foundations of the pagoda, which contained gold jewelry, precious stones and a crystal box with a Buddha relic. These treasures are now stored in the nearby Chao Sam Phraya Museum. Wat Mahathat stood right next to the royal palace and served the kings for the most important religious ceremonies.
BUDDHA’S HEAD IN THE ROOTS OF A TREE
If there is a symbol of Ayutthaya, it is right here. The head of the Buddha is overgrown with the roots of a tree. The first time you see it, you forget to breathe for a moment. No one knows exactly how it got there. It probably fell when the temple was destroyed and the tree gradually “embrace” it. Today, it seems as if nature wanted to protect the Buddha. And maybe it is.
Just one important thing! When taking pictures, you must crouch or bend down so that your head is not higher than the Buddha. Respect is fundamental in Thailand.
CENTRAL PRANG
Once a magnificent tower over 40 meters high, built in the Khmer style, today only the massive base remains, but it still gives an idea of how huge the temple was.
REPRESENTATIONS OF HEADLESS STATUES
At Mahathat you will probably see the most headless Buddha statues in all of Ayutthaya. It has a haunting feel and is reminiscent of the brutality of the war of 1767.
WHY DON’T STATUES HAVE HEADS AND HANDS?
The main reason is the fall of Ayutthaya in 1767. The Burmese army then almost razed the city to the ground. The soldiers deliberately cut off the heads and hands of Buddha statues to symbolically break the spirit of the Thai people and show their dominance. Buddha is sacred to the Thai people, and desecrating him was the greatest disgrace.
In later centuries, when Ayutthaya was an abandoned city in the jungle, it became a target for treasure hunters. Art smugglers cut off heads because they were easy to transport and sold on the black market (especially in the West) as decorative objects for high prices.
There were also legends that gems or gold were hidden inside the statues’ heads, which led to their destruction. Many of the statues were made of sandstone or stucco-covered brick. Over the centuries, as rain fell on them and tree roots grew inside them, the most fragile parts, such as the necks and wrists, naturally disintegrated.
Thais consider even a damaged Buddha statue sacred, which is why you’ll often see flowers, incense sticks, or new orange robes, even if they’re missing their heads.
ROYAL HALL (VIHARN)
Remains of assembly halls with massive brick columns that once supported richly decorated roofs.
PRACTICAL INFORMATION
MAP:
Entrance fee: For foreigners 50 THB (you can also buy a more affordable pass for multiple temples).
Location: Located right in the center of the historic island, opposite Wat Ratchaburana.
WAT RACHTCHABURANA: IT CARRIES A DARK STORY
This temple is not only a fascinating example of Khmer architecture, but also carries a dark story of a fratricidal struggle for the throne. Wat Ratchaburana is located directly opposite the famous Wat Mahathat (the one with the Buddha head in the roots), so you can easily combine them into one walk.
A BATTLE FOR THE THRONE ON ELEPHANTS
The temple was built in 1424 by King Borommaracha II on the site where his two older brothers were cremated. They could not agree on the succession and fought in an elephant duel that ended in the death of both. The youngest brother thus gained the throne and had this majestic monument built there as a memory of the family tragedy.
MAIN PRANG
The central tower, shaped like a corncob, is one of the best preserved in the entire Ayutthaya Historical Park. You can climb the steep steps and enjoy the view of the surrounding ruins.
MYSTERIOUS CRYPT
As one of the few temples, you can descend into the underground crypt. It originally hid a huge gold treasure. Today it is stored in the Chao Sam Phraya National Museum, but you can still see fragments of rare wall paintings from the 15th century.
ENTRANCE GATE
The massive brick portal (gopura) offers a perfect photo frame for the main tower and is a favorite spot for all “instagrammers”.
PRACTICAL TIPS
MAP:
Admission: 50 THB (or combined ticket for 220 THB).
Opening hours: Daily from 8:00 AM to 6:30 PM.
WAT PHRA SRI SANPHET: TEMPLE OF THE HOLY, THE WONDERFUL AND THE ALL-KNOWING
The temple was founded in 1448 by King Borommatrailokkanat right on the grounds of the royal palace. Unlike regular temples, no monks lived here. It served exclusively the royal family for state ceremonies and as the final resting place of the monarchs.
A 16-meter-tall Buddha statue covered in more than 340 kg of pure gold was erected here in 1499. It was destroyed when the city was conquered and plundered by the Burmese in 1767.
When Ayutthaya was conquered by Burmese troops in 1767, the temple was burned down and the gold from the statues melted down. The core of the main statue was later transported to Bangkok to the Wat Pho temple. Interestingly, the opening scenes of the film Mortal Kombat (1995) were filmed here.
PRACTICAL TIPS
Entrance fee: 50 THB
Opening hours: Daily from 8:00 AM to 6:30 PM.
MAP:
WAT PHRA RAM
Although it stands in the shadow of its more famous neighbors, such as Wat Mahathat, it offers a breathtaking atmosphere and one of the best-preserved prangs in the entire historical park. This temple complex was founded in 1369 by King Ramesuan on the site of the cremation of his father, King U-Thong, the founder of Ayutthaya. The dominant feature is the monumental 30-meter-high prang (Khmer-style tower), which is richly decorated with stucco with motifs of garudas, nagas and walking Buddhas.
PARK ENVIRONMENT
The temple is located right next to the vast Bueng Phra Ram Lake, which in the past served as a source of water for the surrounding buildings.
PEACE WITHOUT CROWDS
Unlike the most visited places in Ayutthaya, you can often find peace here for photography and contemplation.
ELEPHANT CAMP
You can often see elephants near the temple, which adds to the exotic atmosphere (although elephant rides are not recommended today for ethical reasons).
PRACTICAL TIPS
MAP:
Opening hours: Daily from 8:00 AM to 6:00 PM (some days until 6:30 PM).
Entrance fee: 50 THB for foreigners. If you plan to visit multiple temples, a combined ticket for 220 THB is worth it, which is valid for the 6 main temples in Ayutthaya Historical Park.
WAT LOKAYA SUTHA: MONASTERY OF THE CELESTIAL LAND
If you’re planning a trip to Ayutthaya, Thailand, you shouldn’t miss one of its most photogenic landmarks. Nicknamed the “Monastery of the Heavenly Land,” this temple is home to one of the largest reclining Buddha statues in all of Thailand.
GIGANTIC RECLINING BUDDHA
The main attraction is a statue called Phra Buddha Sai Yat, which measures an impressive 42 meters long and 8 meters high. Unlike the famous Buddha in Bangkok’s Wat Pho, this one rests in the open air, surrounded only by the ruins of the original temple, which was destroyed during the Burmese invasion of 1767.
The Buddha is depicted at the moment of entering nirvana. He is often draped in a huge orange robe, which, combined with his white surface and lotus pillow under his head, creates a magical atmosphere.
Note his toes. They are all the same length, a typical feature of Buddhist art from the middle Ayutthaya period.
The Wat Lokaya Sutha complex itself is now a peaceful place for contemplation. Of the original temple (Viharn) that once protected the statue, only the brick foundations and a few pillars remain. There is also a 30-meter-high prang (tower), which still stands as a memento of the bygone glory of the Siamese empire.
PRACTICAL TIPS
Admission: There is no admission fee to the site.
Opening hours: Officially from 8:00 to 18:30, but the statue is accessible at almost any time because it is not behind a fence.
MAP:
TRAVEL FROM BANGKOK
The historical city of Ayutthaya is located approximately 80 km from Bangkok. There are several ways to get there:
BY TRAIN: THE CHEAPEST AND MOST POPULAR
Trains depart very frequently and offer an authentic experience at a minimal cost.
Where to go: From the new Krung Thep Aphiwat Central Terminal (express trains) or the old Hua Lamphong Station (local trains).
Travel time: 1 to 2 hours depending on the type of train.
Price: From 15 THB for 3rd class (non-air-conditioned) to around 300+ THB for 2nd class with air conditioning. Tickets for regular trains can be purchased directly at the station before departure.
BY BUS: FAST AND FLEXIBLE
Minivans are a common choice as they run almost every hour.
From: Mo Chit Bus Station (Northern Bus Terminal).
Travel time: Approximately 1.5 hours.
Price: Around 60-160 THB.
Tip for getting around Ayutthaya: Upon arrival at the train station, you can rent a bicycle (approx. 50 THB/day) or hire a tuk-tuk for a few hours (approx. 200-300 THB/hour) to take you between the main temples.
TAXI AND PRIVATE DRIVER: THE MOST COMFORTABLE
Ideal if you are traveling in a group or want maximum flexibility.
Price: Approximately 850 – 1,500 THB per trip. It is recommended to negotiate the price in advance or use the Grab or Bolt app.
Once you’re there, you’ll suddenly understand that Ayutthaya is not just a historical site. It’s a feeling. Why is it worth visiting? Because it reminds you that even great kingdoms come to an end, that beauty can exist in ruins, and sometimes the best experience is when you just sit back and take your time. Thailand is not just about beaches. Sometimes it’s about the silence between old walls. And in that silence, you might hear something important.
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